Procida

 

Procida



Procida is one of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the Metropolitan City of Naples, in the region of Campania.

If you’re a veteran of the Amalfi Coast and the nearby Islands and you’ve never been to Procida, you just may want to give it a shot someday? 

Procida, a tiny spot of land in the Bay of Naples, might be best known as the island between  Ischia and Capri. But in late January, it was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2022, beating nine other candidates—a mix of cities and small towns—and becoming the first island to ever be granted the title.

Under two square miles in total, the island has mostly flown under the tourist radar (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come here for their summer vacations), overshadowed by its better-known siblings. This is all despite its big-screen moments—Procida has served as the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino—and the fact that it features the same pastel houses, cafes-lined marinas, and narrow streets as its bigger counterparts, but also historic sites, wild nature, and near-empty beaches.



PROCIDA

The PORT



HOW to GET THERE


Procida lies 14 miles off the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and hydrofoils leaving from two of the city’s piers, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, as well as from Pozzuoli, just north of Naples. Depending on the ride—the faster hydrofoil or the slower ferry—you’ll get to the island in 40 minutes to 1 hour. You can also travel from Ischia—that’s a 15- to 25-minute journey.





WHAT to SEE


Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main tourist port, you’ll see a cluster of traditional houses along the waterfront, each one painted in vivid shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, and blue—traditionally a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.

Via Roma, Procida’s main street, is right around the corner from the port, and a good spot for lunch—especially at La Medusa, which has been around since 1954. Before you move on, stop for an espresso at Bar Roma and make sure to order lingua di suocera (‘mother-in-law’s tongue’), Procida’s traditional puff pastry filled with lemon custard. Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà, an 18th-century church with an iconic baroque belfry, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.




From here, it’s a 15-minute walk uphill (then downhill) to Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest fishing village. Only reachable on foot or by boat, the area is one of the best places to stay for a taste of slow island living, and is full of restaurants—CaracaleLa Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few—gelato shops like Chiaro di Luna, and bars.

At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with great eateries (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft boutiques, and old-school bakeries—not to mention access to one of the island’s most popular beaches, spiaggia della Chiaiolella, known for its sunsets.

Terra Murata, the fortified medieval stronghold at the highest and northernmost tip of the island, is another highlight. A tumble of skinny lanes and crumbling houses, this is Procida’s most historical center, home to Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, which honors Procida’s patron saint, and Palazzo D’Avalos, a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the island’s governing family. In 1830 the building was converted into a prison that eventually closed in 1988. Two viewpoints here offer the island’s most panoramic vistas: Corricella in all its candy-colored glory to the west; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance, to the east.

Village of Corrocella

On the opposite coast from Marina Grande, in the southern part of the island, there here is a place that no guide on “what to see in Procida” will ever forget.

The seaside village of Corricella is simply suggestive and lively at the same time. It is the classic fishermen village animated by bars, restaurants and small craft shops where you can buy the most typical souvenirs, which anyone who comes to Procida cannot avoid to love and photograph.

Here you can stroll among the fishermen’s nets, admiring the very old colourful houses and deeply breathing the sea in the air.

The BEACHES

Among Procida’s most scenic beaches are Pozzo Vecchio, whose black sands were made famous in Il Postinospiaggia Chiaia, to the east, which overlooks Ischia and features clear, shallow waters and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent seafood restaurant La Conchiglia); and Ciraccio, the longest and most secluded. Further down, the spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another gem, though slightly more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas) start rolling out aperitivo.


Chiaiolella Beach
Procida
Procida Lemons
WHAT to EAT

Spaghetti alla Pescatora Povera – Recipe

This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and a dusting of Pecorino Cheese.

Luveri al sale

The waters of Procida abound with Pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.

Coniglio alla Procidana

In addition to the sea, locals have also sourced food from the island’s terroir. Procida, like Ischia, has a signature rabbit dish, usually prepared with cherry tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, olive oil, and white wine.

Calamari Ripieni

Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.

Pizza di Procida

As Procida is just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples, it should come as no surprise that the island’s pizzaioli emulate the wood-fired style of the world’s pizza capital.

Tortano con i carciofi

Especially popular around Easter, this savory bread is stuffed with artichokes and, at times, sausage.

Spaghetti ai ricci di mare

Creamy and briny, sea urchin has a particular taste, one that fuses nicely with spaghetti when sautéed with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a hint of lemon.

Lingue di Procida

Procida is famous for its lemons, which are larger and sweeter than other varieties. The Procidani prepare them in dozens of sweet and savory recipes, and a signature dolce is the Lingue di Procida, or tongues of Procida, lemon-flavored, cream-filled pastries.

L’insalata di limone

Speaking of lemons, the lemon salad with mint, garlic, crushed red chili pepper, garlic and olive oil makes for an airy, refreshing start to any meal.

A Typical Procida Lunch
Fried Anchovies & a Glass of Local Wine

WHERE to STAY

The San Michele in Corricella, has 12 tastefully decorated rooms done in earthy tones and minimalist design. A similar aesthetic is found in its slightly bigger sister property La Suite, a stylish accommodation near Ciraccio that comes with a pool, a garden, and striking views.

In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not just for its simple, brightly colored rooms but its pizzeria, one of the most famous in Procida. La Vigna in a beautifully restored farmstead within a vineyard that overlooks the Bay of Naples, delivers charm and tranquility.

CALACAL
PROCIDA

CALACALA FARM EXPERIENCE
FIND a ROOM on PROCIDA

MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA

IL POSITANO
Starring : Massimo TRoisi
And Maria Grazia Cucinotto
Shot in the Village of Corocella
On The Isle of Procida
Also
The TALENTED Mr. RIPLEY
The Talented Mr. Ripley
Strarring :  Matt Damon
Gwyneth Palthrow & Jude Law
MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA
NAPLES & The AMALFI COAST


POSITANO THE AMALFI COAST

TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK

SORRENTO CAPRI NAPLES

ISCHIA PROCIDA RAVELLO

Orecchiette Street Bari Italy – Nunzia Makes Pasta – Recipe

 


NUNZIA

The FAMOUS ORECCHIETTE PASTA LADY

BARI, ITALY




WATCH NUNZIA MAKE ORECCHIETTE

BARI,  ITALY

Nunzia is the most Famous Orecchiette on The Orecchiette Street

In Barivecchia BARI, ITALY

Watch Best Selling Italian Cookbook Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke

as He Meets Up with Nunzia to Watch her Expert Pasta Making Skills

Nunzia Invites Daniel into Her Home in Barivecchia (Old Town of Bar)

For a Tasty Bowl of her Famous Orecchiette and a glass of Wine and Limoncello

Daniel said, “I’m in 7th Heaven. This is Amazing ! I Love this Woman”




NUNZIA

Nunzia chats with these two Barese Fellows

She keeps making Orecchiette, as her Mother Looks On

NUNZIA is a GEM  “We LOVE HER”

So will You. Look for this dear sweet Lady on The ORECCHIETTE STREET

BARIVECCHIA – Bari, Italy

Video made by Best Selling Italian Cookbook author Daniel Belllino Zwicke

Author of SUNDAY SAUCE, Grandma Bellino’s Cookbook, Segreto Italiano

And his latest BEST SELLER – POSITANO The AMALFI COAST – Travel Guide Cookbook






NONNA BELLINO’S COOKBOOK

Daniel Hanging with Nunzia

BARIVECCHIA

Bari, Italy

PUGLIA






POSITANO The AMALFI COAST

TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK










Rock Stars & Movie Stars on The Amalfi Coast

ROCK STARS WRITERS & MOVIE STARS

On CAPRI and The AMALFI COAST

ITALY

 
 
Humphrey Bogart and Gina Lollobrigida
 
BEAT The DEVIL
 
Ravello
 
 
 
 
Clark Gable & Sophia Loren
 
IT STARTED in NAPLES
 
 
Yes, Movie Stars, Rock Stars, and writers, they all go to the Amalfi Coast, Ravello (Gore Vidal),
and the beautiful Isle of Capri, like: Neruda, Valentino, Jackie Kennedy, and Italian film directors 
Federico Fellini and Dino De Laurentiis. In the 50s and 60s Capri and the Amalfi Coast saw the likes of Sophia Loren, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Jack Lemmon,Vittorio De Sica, and Gina Lollobrigida all make movies in the area, to name but a few. We saw Jack Lemmon make another film in the area in the 1970s when he made Macaroni with the great Italian actor, the great
Marcello Mastroianni in the vibrant southern Italian capital city of Naples. It’s a marvelous movie, and if you’ve never seen it, we suggest you do.
 
The 1990s saw the likes of Matt Damon, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, and the late great
Phillip Seymour Hoffman shooting The Talented Mr. Ripley on the local islands of Procida and 
Ischia. Parts of the film were also shot in Rome, Venice, and San Remo.
 
The 90s also saw Robert Downey Jr., Marisa Tomei, Fischer Stevens, and Billy Zane in a cute
Romantic Comedy that starts in Pittsburgh, moves on to Venice, a drive through Tuscan, and on to Rome before the finale in Positano on The Amalfi Coast. The characters stayed in the luxurious
Le Sirenuse Hotel. It’s a cut little film, and all the Italian locals are just gorgeous.
 
We don’t see another major American movie set on The Amalfi Coast until a small part of the film
Under The Tuscan Sun, starring Diane Lane is shot there in 2003.
 
Nowadays we are seeing lots of major celebrities vacationing on Capri, Positano and The Amalfi Coast. This past Summer of 2021 saw “Bennifer” Jennifer Lopez and beau Ben Affleck celebrating Jennifer’s 52nd Birthday on a Luxury Yacht moored off of Capri, Positano, and the namesake town of Amalfi. Rapper / actor LL Cool J was spotted hanging out with former NBA great Irvin Magic Johnson on the Isle of Capri, where Magic celebrated his 59th Birthday at a restaurant on Capri with his wife, friends, and family. Denzel Washington loves Positano as well, and has been spotted at 
Chez Black and Music on The Rocks, both in Positano, and Best Selling Italian Cookbook writer Daniel Bellino Zwicke has been vacationing in Positano and Capri since the Summer of 1985. His latest book, is Positano The Amalfi Coast Cookbook & Travel Guide.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
Sophia Loren in “Scandal in Sorrento”
 
SORRENTO 1955
 
 
 
 
Sophia Loren and Clark Gable
 
On CAPRI
 
“IT STARTED in NAPLES”
 
1960
 
 
 
 
 
Jen & Ben
 
aka “BENNIFER”
 
CAPRI
 
2021
 
 
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The YACHT
 
Chartered by JEN & BEN
 
BENNIFER
 
“HAPPY BIRTHDAY JENNIFER” !!!
 
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JLO & BEN
 
A KISS FOr The BIRTHDAY GIRL
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LOOKING For a ROOM
 
POSITANO CAPRI The AMALFI COAST
 
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POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
COOKBOOK & TRAVEL GUIDE
PACK IT in YOUR BAG
 
 
 
Screenshot 2021-12-17 2.39.10 PM
 
 
SOPHIA LOREN
 
 

 

Positano The Amalfi Coast Travel Cookbook / Travel Guide

“IT’S FINALLY HERE” !!!

POSITANO The AMALFI COAST COOKBOOK

TRAVEL GUIDE

Is LIVE and AVAILABLE at AMAZON.com

Hello folks, boys and girls, Ladies & Gentlemen, “it’s here!” What? POSITANO is Here !!! The AMALFI COAST COOKBOOK / TRAVEL GUide by me, Daniel Bellino Zwicke has been published and is live and for sale on Amazon on this day and on into the future for many years, Positano The AMalfi Coast Cookbook / Travel Guide is live and ready to go to all of you waiting and planning that special trip to Capri, Positano, Ravello or anywhere that your heart desires of the beautiful Amalfi Coast of Southern Italy. “How bout that?” It’s a very happy day for me, I’ve been working on this book for almost two years, and now here it is on February 8th of the year 2021, after the horrible year we had last year (2020), a better and happier year and day and many happy days ahead in 2021 and-on-and-on. You can now get yourself a copy POSITANO , this the first book on Positano & The Amalfi Coast that is a Cookbook, Guide Book, and book of essays and stories on Positano, Capri, and the gorgeous Amalfi Coast. “Yee-haa!”

So, if you’re planning that special Positano / Amalfi Coast vacation, honeymoon, wedding or whatever, and you need a little help planning, and seek some inspiration and ideas for your special vacation, why not start here and grab a copy? The book is filled with information, recipes, and delightful stories that are sure to get those travel juices flowing. Just read the stories and get all pumped up by the future prospects of your dream vacation on the Amalfi Coast, a wedding in Ravello, or Romantic Honeymoon on Capri, or Positano. You will start as you read through the pages of this book and maybe making a plate of Mussels Marinara or Spaghetti Vongole, just two of the many wonderful recipes in this book. This is part of Daniel’s plan and how he envisioned this book to inspire through the stories and cooking some of the wonderful dishes that are favorites in Naples, on Capri, Positano, and all over the Amalfi Coast. Make these dishes to get psyched for your trip, as well as reliving memories of the favorite things you ate in Positano once you are home. This book will help you achieve these things.

Thanks so Much,

Daniel

“POSITANO it’s HERE” !!!!

AMAZON.com

Ode to Bar DiMartino – Positano

 
 
Relaxing at Bar Di Martino
 
Positano

 

 
 
Bar Di Martino
 
Via Pasitea, Positano
 
 
Once Upon A Time in Positano on the Amalfi Coast not so long ago there was the Bar Di Martino on the curve of Punta Reginella with one of the most scenic panoramas this village of breathtaking panoramas has to offer. Breakfast-lunch-cocktails and late night gatherings brought together visitors from around the world and local residents in a perennially festive mood to see and be seen. To discuss and argue and create new friendships and appointments for the day and the weeks ahead.

 

 
 
 
I first started gong to Positano way back in the Summer of 1985. I was in my early 20s, working
at the venerable old Italian joint “John’s of East 12th Street” and my boss Nick and his wife Valentina had been there and raved of the place. Valentina said, “I had to go. It’s gorgeous.” I was about to take a trip to Italy, to Rome, Venice, to visit my high school friend JoAnna in Florence, and now Positano. I would also go meet up with some friends in Barcelona, run into my friend Lisa there, and go to Blanes on the Costa Brava as well. In-between Spain and making my way to Venice, I made a stop at The French Riviera to Monaco and staying in Nice where I had a brief affair with a beautiful French girl Chantel.
 
After my first foray of several trips to Venice, I mad my way down to Positano. Back then, there was no internet, and though they had travel guide books and I had my Frommer’s Guide to Europe on $25 a Day, the amount of info you could get back then as compared to these days, was a dismal fraction of present day travel info. So o that first trip, I took a train from Rome to Naples, which took 3 hours. Then I took the Circumvesuviana that goes from Naples to Sorrento, but someone told me to get off the train at Meta, which I did, and for me to catch a bus in Meta to take me right into Positano, and so I did. 
 
So I hopped on the Blue Sita Bus in Meta and I was on my final leg to Positano. Once on that bus I would be treated to the most beautiful ride of my life. The bus drove from Meta to Positano along the famed Amalfi Drive (Divina Strada). The rode clings to the side of cliffs that soar high above the sea 1,000 feet below. It’s absolutely beautiful, and quite dramatic. That first trip I shall never forget.
 
A few thousand feet away, you catch your first glimpse of the enchanting little town on the Amalfi Coast, the town of Positano which literally springs up out of the sea, with hotels and white and pastel colored homes that seemed to be stacked on-on-top-of-the-other. Jasmine trees fill the air with their fragrant scent as thousands of bright purple Bougainvillea plants disperse their gorgeous color, along with all sorts of varied shades of flowers that only enhance an already gorgeous setting. So when I first saw this beautiful town springing up out of the Tyrrhenian Sea, I was mesmerized. I’d never seen anything so stunning. 
 
By the time the bus dropped me off in front of the Bar International, I was already in Love. I grabbed my bags and went into the bar. I needed an Espresso and a little something to eat. I also needed to use the bathroom and wash up a bit. I went into the bathroom and this was one of the first of so many things in Positano that struck me. Something little, but it struck me nevertheless, and as you can see, I still remember and talk about it to this day, some 35 years on. What is it, you ask? I walked into the bathroom and can see that the bar and bathroom were quite literally built into the mountain. The mountain was in the bathroom, or vice versa. The wall was quite literally the rock of the mountain. Not rock that was placed there, but it was the mountain, and this building was built into the solid rock of the mountain and was the most inner wall of the building (Bar International). When a went to Bar Di Martino the next day, I would relieved that that building, as well as the restaurant Da Vincenzo was built into the mountain as well, and in the lower dining room at Da Vincenzo, the back wall of the restaurant is the mountain itself.
 
Yes, I fell in love with Positano in an instant, “Love at 1st sight,” as they saw. and I no matter that the town has been overrun by way too many tourist for a small town, Positano I still love, I guess mainly for the reason that I was a young man making my first explorations of Italy, Europe, Positano, and the gorgeous Amalfi Coast.
 
As I’ve just said, one of my explorations was going into the cute little Bar Di Martino which was close to my pensione Villa Maria Antonietta, where I stayed my first year in Positano (1985) on the advice of my friend, the poet Rene Ricard who wrote me a letter of introduction to Signora Carmen, the owner of the little pensione. It was a nice little place, affordable, and in a good location right in the center of Positano, and so I spent 4 nights there in the Summer of 1985. The next year (1986) I made a great discovery in coming across Casa Albertina, a lovely hotel right behind Da Vincenzo and Bar Di Martino, and I have been staying at this wonderful hotel ever since.
 
When I went back to Positano the following year, and I was scouting around for a hotel, I walked into the front door of Casa Albertina, where Lorenzo was sitting behind the desk, and greeted me with a friendly hello. When I inquired about the availability of rooms, I guess Lorenzo could see I was just a young man, and probably didn’t have a lot of money to spend so he gave me what he called “a Special Young Persons Price,” which was $79 and quite a good deal for the quality of this lovely hotel, which is one of my favorites in the entire world, and for anyone looking for a nice place to stay in Positano, I highly recommend to stay there, and so I did, in 1986, again in 1987, and in 2015.
 
Wow, really got off the main subject of what I wanted to talk about, Bar Di Martino. When I started going to Positano in 1985, Bar di Martino was just a small little town bar that served coffee (espresso / cappuccino) all day long, as well as Cornetto, Campari, Negroni’s, local wine, beer, sandwiches, and the normal things that you’d find a thousands of little local bars all over Italy. Bar Di Martino was a small bar, with not a lot of space inside, but they had tables outside along the outer wall of the bar, as well as tables on terrace on the other side of the street (Via Pasitea) opposite the bar, where I’d go for a Campari after a day at the beach, and before I went back to Casa Albertina to take a late afternoon nap. I got to know the family, the two girls Betty DeMartino and her sister.
 
The one very cool thing about Bar DiMartino was that it was the cool place for those in-the-know to go to for evening cocktails and just the best place to hang out at at night, after dinner at your chosen restaurant of the evening, Bar DiMartino was the place to go. Lorenzo introduced me to the Di Martino’s and to other people around town. It was my good fortune to walk into Casa Albertino and meet Lorenzo way back in 1986.
 
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Italian Cookbook Author Daniel Bellino “Z”
 
At Bar DiMartino
 
POSITANO
 
1986
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POSITANO
 
The AMALFI COAST COOKBOOK
 
TRAVEL GUIDE
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
Victor
 
At Da VINCENZO’S
 
POSITANO 1986
 
 
 
 
 
The TERRAZZO
At CASA  ALBERTINA
 
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HOTEL CASA ALBERTINA
 
POSITANO
 
 
 

A 10-minute walk from a sandy beach in Positano,  Hotel Casa Albertina features a terrace with views of the sea and a bar. Including free Wi-Fi, the property is only 10 miles from Amalfi.

Featuring a flat-screen TV, minibar and telephone, the air-conditioned rooms have a private bathroom. They include free towels and free linens. Some have a balcony or a terrace.

Guests at Casa Albertina Hotel can enjoy a continental breakfast buffet. On request, a cooked breakfast is also available. Two restaurants are within 300 feet of the property.

 
 
 
 
 
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BOOK a ROOM at CASA ALBERTINA
 
ANYWHERE iN POSITANO
 
The AMALFI COAST / WORLDWIDE
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