Procida

 

Procida



Procida is one of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the Metropolitan City of Naples, in the region of Campania.

If you’re a veteran of the Amalfi Coast and the nearby Islands and you’ve never been to Procida, you just may want to give it a shot someday? 

Procida, a tiny spot of land in the Bay of Naples, might be best known as the island between  Ischia and Capri. But in late January, it was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2022, beating nine other candidates—a mix of cities and small towns—and becoming the first island to ever be granted the title.

Under two square miles in total, the island has mostly flown under the tourist radar (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come here for their summer vacations), overshadowed by its better-known siblings. This is all despite its big-screen moments—Procida has served as the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino—and the fact that it features the same pastel houses, cafes-lined marinas, and narrow streets as its bigger counterparts, but also historic sites, wild nature, and near-empty beaches.



PROCIDA

The PORT



HOW to GET THERE


Procida lies 14 miles off the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and hydrofoils leaving from two of the city’s piers, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, as well as from Pozzuoli, just north of Naples. Depending on the ride—the faster hydrofoil or the slower ferry—you’ll get to the island in 40 minutes to 1 hour. You can also travel from Ischia—that’s a 15- to 25-minute journey.





WHAT to SEE


Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main tourist port, you’ll see a cluster of traditional houses along the waterfront, each one painted in vivid shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, and blue—traditionally a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.

Via Roma, Procida’s main street, is right around the corner from the port, and a good spot for lunch—especially at La Medusa, which has been around since 1954. Before you move on, stop for an espresso at Bar Roma and make sure to order lingua di suocera (‘mother-in-law’s tongue’), Procida’s traditional puff pastry filled with lemon custard. Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà, an 18th-century church with an iconic baroque belfry, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.




From here, it’s a 15-minute walk uphill (then downhill) to Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest fishing village. Only reachable on foot or by boat, the area is one of the best places to stay for a taste of slow island living, and is full of restaurants—CaracaleLa Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few—gelato shops like Chiaro di Luna, and bars.

At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with great eateries (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft boutiques, and old-school bakeries—not to mention access to one of the island’s most popular beaches, spiaggia della Chiaiolella, known for its sunsets.

Terra Murata, the fortified medieval stronghold at the highest and northernmost tip of the island, is another highlight. A tumble of skinny lanes and crumbling houses, this is Procida’s most historical center, home to Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, which honors Procida’s patron saint, and Palazzo D’Avalos, a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the island’s governing family. In 1830 the building was converted into a prison that eventually closed in 1988. Two viewpoints here offer the island’s most panoramic vistas: Corricella in all its candy-colored glory to the west; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance, to the east.

Village of Corrocella

On the opposite coast from Marina Grande, in the southern part of the island, there here is a place that no guide on “what to see in Procida” will ever forget.

The seaside village of Corricella is simply suggestive and lively at the same time. It is the classic fishermen village animated by bars, restaurants and small craft shops where you can buy the most typical souvenirs, which anyone who comes to Procida cannot avoid to love and photograph.

Here you can stroll among the fishermen’s nets, admiring the very old colourful houses and deeply breathing the sea in the air.

The BEACHES

Among Procida’s most scenic beaches are Pozzo Vecchio, whose black sands were made famous in Il Postinospiaggia Chiaia, to the east, which overlooks Ischia and features clear, shallow waters and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent seafood restaurant La Conchiglia); and Ciraccio, the longest and most secluded. Further down, the spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another gem, though slightly more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas) start rolling out aperitivo.


Chiaiolella Beach
Procida
Procida Lemons
WHAT to EAT

Spaghetti alla Pescatora Povera – Recipe

This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and a dusting of Pecorino Cheese.

Luveri al sale

The waters of Procida abound with Pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.

Coniglio alla Procidana

In addition to the sea, locals have also sourced food from the island’s terroir. Procida, like Ischia, has a signature rabbit dish, usually prepared with cherry tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, olive oil, and white wine.

Calamari Ripieni

Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.

Pizza di Procida

As Procida is just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples, it should come as no surprise that the island’s pizzaioli emulate the wood-fired style of the world’s pizza capital.

Tortano con i carciofi

Especially popular around Easter, this savory bread is stuffed with artichokes and, at times, sausage.

Spaghetti ai ricci di mare

Creamy and briny, sea urchin has a particular taste, one that fuses nicely with spaghetti when sautéed with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a hint of lemon.

Lingue di Procida

Procida is famous for its lemons, which are larger and sweeter than other varieties. The Procidani prepare them in dozens of sweet and savory recipes, and a signature dolce is the Lingue di Procida, or tongues of Procida, lemon-flavored, cream-filled pastries.

L’insalata di limone

Speaking of lemons, the lemon salad with mint, garlic, crushed red chili pepper, garlic and olive oil makes for an airy, refreshing start to any meal.

A Typical Procida Lunch
Fried Anchovies & a Glass of Local Wine

WHERE to STAY

The San Michele in Corricella, has 12 tastefully decorated rooms done in earthy tones and minimalist design. A similar aesthetic is found in its slightly bigger sister property La Suite, a stylish accommodation near Ciraccio that comes with a pool, a garden, and striking views.

In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not just for its simple, brightly colored rooms but its pizzeria, one of the most famous in Procida. La Vigna in a beautifully restored farmstead within a vineyard that overlooks the Bay of Naples, delivers charm and tranquility.

CALACAL
PROCIDA

CALACALA FARM EXPERIENCE
FIND a ROOM on PROCIDA

MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA

IL POSITANO
Starring : Massimo TRoisi
And Maria Grazia Cucinotto
Shot in the Village of Corocella
On The Isle of Procida
Also
The TALENTED Mr. RIPLEY
The Talented Mr. Ripley
Strarring :  Matt Damon
Gwyneth Palthrow & Jude Law
MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA
NAPLES & The AMALFI COAST


POSITANO THE AMALFI COAST

TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK

SORRENTO CAPRI NAPLES

ISCHIA PROCIDA RAVELLO

Orecchiette Street Bari Italy – Nunzia Makes Pasta – Recipe

 


NUNZIA

The FAMOUS ORECCHIETTE PASTA LADY

BARI, ITALY




WATCH NUNZIA MAKE ORECCHIETTE

BARI,  ITALY

Nunzia is the most Famous Orecchiette on The Orecchiette Street

In Barivecchia BARI, ITALY

Watch Best Selling Italian Cookbook Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke

as He Meets Up with Nunzia to Watch her Expert Pasta Making Skills

Nunzia Invites Daniel into Her Home in Barivecchia (Old Town of Bar)

For a Tasty Bowl of her Famous Orecchiette and a glass of Wine and Limoncello

Daniel said, “I’m in 7th Heaven. This is Amazing ! I Love this Woman”




NUNZIA

Nunzia chats with these two Barese Fellows

She keeps making Orecchiette, as her Mother Looks On

NUNZIA is a GEM  “We LOVE HER”

So will You. Look for this dear sweet Lady on The ORECCHIETTE STREET

BARIVECCHIA – Bari, Italy

Video made by Best Selling Italian Cookbook author Daniel Belllino Zwicke

Author of SUNDAY SAUCE, Grandma Bellino’s Cookbook, Segreto Italiano

And his latest BEST SELLER – POSITANO The AMALFI COAST – Travel Guide Cookbook






NONNA BELLINO’S COOKBOOK

Daniel Hanging with Nunzia

BARIVECCHIA

Bari, Italy

PUGLIA






POSITANO The AMALFI COAST

TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK










Positano The Amalfi Coast Travel Cookbook / Travel Guide

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