POSITANO
PIZZA PASTA PANINI
PASTRIES & GELATO
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POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
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FIND a ROOM in POSITANO
The AMALFI COAST
WORLDWIDE
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POSITANO
The SNEAKER
Category: Positano
Procida
Procida
Procida is one of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the Metropolitan City of Naples, in the region of Campania.
If you’re a veteran of the Amalfi Coast and the nearby Islands and you’ve never been to Procida, you just may want to give it a shot someday?
Procida, a tiny spot of land in the Bay of Naples, might be best known as the island between Ischia and Capri. But in late January, it was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2022, beating nine other candidates—a mix of cities and small towns—and becoming the first island to ever be granted the title.
Under two square miles in total, the island has mostly flown under the tourist radar (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come here for their summer vacations), overshadowed by its better-known siblings. This is all despite its big-screen moments—Procida has served as the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino—and the fact that it features the same pastel houses, cafes-lined marinas, and narrow streets as its bigger counterparts, but also historic sites, wild nature, and near-empty beaches.
PROCIDA
The PORT
HOW to GET THERE
Procida lies 14 miles off the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and hydrofoils leaving from two of the city’s piers, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, as well as from Pozzuoli, just north of Naples. Depending on the ride—the faster hydrofoil or the slower ferry—you’ll get to the island in 40 minutes to 1 hour. You can also travel from Ischia—that’s a 15- to 25-minute journey.
WHAT to SEE
Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main tourist port, you’ll see a cluster of traditional houses along the waterfront, each one painted in vivid shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, and blue—traditionally a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.
Via Roma, Procida’s main street, is right around the corner from the port, and a good spot for lunch—especially at La Medusa, which has been around since 1954. Before you move on, stop for an espresso at Bar Roma and make sure to order lingua di suocera (‘mother-in-law’s tongue’), Procida’s traditional puff pastry filled with lemon custard. Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà, an 18th-century church with an iconic baroque belfry, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.
From here, it’s a 15-minute walk uphill (then downhill) to Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest fishing village. Only reachable on foot or by boat, the area is one of the best places to stay for a taste of slow island living, and is full of restaurants—Caracale, La Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few—gelato shops like Chiaro di Luna, and bars.
At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with great eateries (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft boutiques, and old-school bakeries—not to mention access to one of the island’s most popular beaches, spiaggia della Chiaiolella, known for its sunsets.
Terra Murata, the fortified medieval stronghold at the highest and northernmost tip of the island, is another highlight. A tumble of skinny lanes and crumbling houses, this is Procida’s most historical center, home to Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, which honors Procida’s patron saint, and Palazzo D’Avalos, a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the island’s governing family. In 1830 the building was converted into a prison that eventually closed in 1988. Two viewpoints here offer the island’s most panoramic vistas: Corricella in all its candy-colored glory to the west; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance, to the east.
Village of Corrocella
On the opposite coast from Marina Grande, in the southern part of the island, there here is a place that no guide on “what to see in Procida” will ever forget.
The seaside village of Corricella is simply suggestive and lively at the same time. It is the classic fishermen village animated by bars, restaurants and small craft shops where you can buy the most typical souvenirs, which anyone who comes to Procida cannot avoid to love and photograph.
Here you can stroll among the fishermen’s nets, admiring the very old colourful houses and deeply breathing the sea in the air.
The BEACHES
Among Procida’s most scenic beaches are Pozzo Vecchio, whose black sands were made famous in Il Postino; spiaggia Chiaia, to the east, which overlooks Ischia and features clear, shallow waters and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent seafood restaurant La Conchiglia); and Ciraccio, the longest and most secluded. Further down, the spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another gem, though slightly more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas) start rolling out aperitivo.
Chiaiolella Beach
Procida
Procida Lemons
WHAT to EAT
Spaghetti alla Pescatora Povera – Recipe
This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and a dusting of Pecorino Cheese.
Luveri al sale
The waters of Procida abound with Pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.
Coniglio alla Procidana
In addition to the sea, locals have also sourced food from the island’s terroir. Procida, like Ischia, has a signature rabbit dish, usually prepared with cherry tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, olive oil, and white wine.
Calamari Ripieni
Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.
Pizza di Procida
As Procida is just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples, it should come as no surprise that the island’s pizzaioli emulate the wood-fired style of the world’s pizza capital.
Tortano con i carciofi
Especially popular around Easter, this savory bread is stuffed with artichokes and, at times, sausage.
Spaghetti ai ricci di mare
Creamy and briny, sea urchin has a particular taste, one that fuses nicely with spaghetti when sautéed with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a hint of lemon.
Lingue di Procida
Procida is famous for its lemons, which are larger and sweeter than other varieties. The Procidani prepare them in dozens of sweet and savory recipes, and a signature dolce is the Lingue di Procida, or tongues of Procida, lemon-flavored, cream-filled pastries.
L’insalata di limone
Speaking of lemons, the lemon salad with mint, garlic, crushed red chili pepper, garlic and olive oil makes for an airy, refreshing start to any meal.
A Typical Procida Lunch
Fried Anchovies & a Glass of Local Wine
WHERE to STAY
The San Michele in Corricella, has 12 tastefully decorated rooms done in earthy tones and minimalist design. A similar aesthetic is found in its slightly bigger sister property La Suite, a stylish accommodation near Ciraccio that comes with a pool, a garden, and striking views.
In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not just for its simple, brightly colored rooms but its pizzeria, one of the most famous in Procida. La Vigna in a beautifully restored farmstead within a vineyard that overlooks the Bay of Naples, delivers charm and tranquility.
CALACAL
PROCIDA
CALACALA FARM EXPERIENCE
FIND a ROOM on PROCIDA
MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA
IL POSITANO
Starring : Massimo TRoisi
And Maria Grazia Cucinotto
Shot in the Village of Corocella
On The Isle of Procida
Also
The TALENTED Mr. RIPLEY
The Talented Mr. Ripley
Strarring : Matt Damon
Gwyneth Palthrow & Jude Law
MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA
NAPLES & The AMALFI COAST
POSITANO THE AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
SORRENTO CAPRI NAPLES
ISCHIA PROCIDA RAVELLO
Happy Birthday MARILYN MONROE
“HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARILYN” !!!!
Marilyn Monroe
MARILYN MONROE Memorabilia Auction
Marilyn Monroe’s birthday is definitely something to celebrate.
The Hollywood icon would have been 96 on June 1 and to commemorate the milestone, Julien’s Auctions is selling her personal effects and memorabilia.
Fans will be able to bid on items such as her film costumes, lingerie, jewelry, photographs, handwritten notes, files and other relics from her life and career.
In conjunction with Turner Classic Movies, the auction — titled “Hollywood Legends” — will be carried out in Beverly Hills, California, from July 15 to July 17.
The collection features keepsakes from Monroe’s famous films such as “How To Marry a Millionaire,” “There’s No Business Like Show Business,” “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,” “Some Like It Hot,” “Bus Stop,” “Let’s Make Love”
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARILYN
Julien’s is hosting its second annual birthday tribute in the form of an online only auction to Hollywood’s most enduring blonde, Marilyn Monroe, on what would have been her 95th Birthday, June 1st.
We will have over 200 lots on offer, all celebrating Marilyn including: rare 1950s-era vintage magazines, museum-quality photographs, a huge assortment of collectibles (some of which never made it to the market), and out-of-print books and biographies, among countless other items all related to the star.
This is a “something for everyone” type of auction as estimates are all under $500 and there will be no reserves on any lot.
We know you’ll want to participate in what promises to be an exciting “virtual birthday party auction” for our favorite blonde!
TURQUOISE MARILYN
“HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARILYN” !!!
On Her 96th BIRTHDAY
June 2, 2022
TURQUOISE MARILYN
“Your MORNING COFFEE with MARILYN”
Marilyn Monroe
The 7 YEAR ITCH
My CAPRI by Travel Writer Italian Cookbook Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Capri
The Faraglioni
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CAPRI
From Summit of MONTE SOLARO
MY CAPRI
I first started gong to Capri in the Summer of 1986. I was a young man in my early 20s, and travel was so much different than it is now. First off, there was no internet back then, No Expedia, no Booking.com , to check out info on anything or anyplace, no Whatsapp to send text and talk on the phone for Free anywhere in the World. You couldn’t look up and buy Airline Tickets by yourself, you had to go through a Travel Agent, or purchase a plane ticket directly from the airline. You only info came from your own personal research from books and magazine articles, past experiences, and advice and info from friends.
Back then in 1986 and before, most people if they were traveling to Italy, to Capri, or anywhere in the World would buy Travel Guide Books, like Baedekers, Fodors, Frommer Guides, and any number of Travel Guide Books available at the time. Rick Steves was just starting out back then, and I did buy his Europe Through The Back Door guide book, along with Europe on $40 a Day, which was my main source at the time. When it came to finding accommodations. Typically, for any place that you were traveling too : Rome, Paris, etc., there would be info on the main attractions to see, how to get around, restaurant suggestions, and a list of hotel accommodations in 3 price categories : of Budget Hotels, Moderate Priced, and Luxury Hotels.
With my Frommer’s Guide in had, on this my second trip to Italy, I got my hotel in Rome from the Frommer’s recommendation, and I looked up budget hotels in Capri. There was I think only 2 under the budget range as I recall. I picked the Villa Tosca at $40 a night. So they way I did it back then, I had my list of budget , I get into town, and either go to the property or give them a call from a cafe or on a payphone somewhere, when I got to my destination.
So the first time I went to Capri, I took the ferry boat, and when I arrived in Marina Grande, Capri, and got off the boat, and walked down the dock, and once I came across a payphone, I gave them a call at Villa Tosca. I asked if they had any rooms available? They did. They asked me where I was. I told them that I had juts gotten off the ferry boat and was down by the port. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown, and when I got off, just walk straithgt through the Piazza and then down toward the Hotel Quisisana The hotel was behind the Quisisana. Just walk the alleyway alongside the hotel and I would come across a sign that pointed to the Villa Tosca. And so I did.
When I got off of the Funicular, I spotted a cute little Lemonade Stand (Lemon Granita). It was hot out, and I couldn’t resist. I got a Lemonade. Best Lemonade I’ve ever had. It was cold and refreshing, and I Loved it. The Lemonade Stand is still there in the Piazzetta. The only difference is that instead of less than a dollar for a Lemonade, the now (2022) cost a Whopping $5 ..
I walked down toward the Quisisana. It came into view. A beautiful Grand Old Hotel. I walked down the pathway, and right before the Via Augustus. I saw the sign and followed the pathway. I came to it, Villa Tosca, which back then was a simple pensione. Today it is no longer called Villa Tosca. It is owned by the same family, but a few years back, the son turned it into a nice little boutique hotel and changed the name to “La Tosca” (hotel). I gave them my Passport, then checked into my room. It was late afternoon. I left Rome in the morning, bound for Naples Central Station. I arrived about 3 hours later. I walked outside the train station, and found the bus that went to the Porto. I hopped on, and arrived about 15 minutes later. Got on the ferry and went to Capri, and now I’m at my little hotel. I took a shower, got dressed and went out. I had seen the Faraglioni from my balcony. I went out on the main terrazzo of the hotel and just starred at them. The Faraglioni were beckining my to them, and I just started walking toward them. The walk along the Via Tragara was gorgeous. I passed all the beautiful villas along the way. Villas owned by Valentino, Armani, Sophia Loren and others with the means to own them. I loved it. When I got down to the end of the Via Tragara, I saw another Lemonade Stand. I got one. This little old lemonade stand is still there. Same story, a Lemonade has gone from $1 to 5. I could see the Faraglioni. They were Gorgeous. I walked down the path, getting one beautiful view after the other. I was mesmerized. One of the most beautiful sights of my life. I walked all the way down, taking pictures along the way.
The first beach I ever swam at was Marina Piccolo, way back on that 1st trip in 1986. I met a couple girls from South Africa, and the 3 of us went to the beach there. It was great, and it started my Caari Ritual of going swimming on Capri (any beach) then catching a bus back to Capritown, getting off the bus, and heading straight to Bar Tiberio in the Piazza Umberto for some afternoon Aperitivo of Campari, Negroni s, Lemonade, or glass of local wine.
If I was at Da Luigi Beach Club, I’d take the boat from Da Luigi to Marina Piccolo, and pick up the bus to Capritown at the Little Chapel at Marina Piccolo. I Love Da Luigi, not only one of my favorite swim spots on Capri, but one of my favorite places in the entire World to go swimming. It’s gorgeous. Right there smack-dab next to the famed Faraglioni Rocks of Capri. When I went there in 2015, I started a new ritual whereby I go to the Salumeria Capri (by the bus station Capritown) to get a nice Beach Lunch to bring with me to Da Luigi. I usually get a Arancini (Rice Ball) some Eggpant Parmigiana, a bottle of Mineral Water, and a small bottle of local Red Wine, usually Aglianico. I love it. They make really good food at Saluneria Capri, and I go there often for Arancini, Panini, water and Wine when I’m on Capri.
I’m not normally a beach person, nut when I’m on Capri, I Love to go swimming. It so refreshing, and I like it. When I go into the water, I usually stay in for 15 to 20 minutes at a time. Same in Positano. I just swim out and float, and have a wonderful time. I love swimming out, and just lie floating on my back and look at the cliffs as the shoot out of the Sea, soaring to heights of 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the Sea. It’s quite a dramatic sight on Capri, or if I’m swimming in Positano, the views as you float in the water, looking back to the island, is mesmerizing. “I Love it”
I was surprised when I decided one day to swim at the beach at Marina Grande one day, I think it was 2019. I had always thought that it would be too crowded and maybe the water over there. It wasn’t. In fact it was quite clean, and I had a great time swimming there. I swam there, again on my most recent trip, in the Spring of 2022. It was the middle of May, and it was not hot out. It was a bit chilly, but I wanted to swim. “I’m not going to Capri, and not swim. Mo way.” I decided to head over to the Beach at Marina Grande. When I got there, there were people at the beach, but not even 1 person was swimming, no one at all. I staked out my territory, and put my swim trunks that were in my backpack on. I just took off my pants. I had underwear on, so I wasn’t indecent. I put on my trunks. There were 3 people together there hanging-out next to me. I asked them to watch my stuff. “OK,” they said. I started walking into the water with my new swim shoes. They guy told me, “Ne careful. Be careful of the Rock.” I knew what he meant, There are a lot of rocks there, and you have to be careful not to fall and hit yourself on the rock. You could really get hurt if you didn’t pay attention. You could get hurt bad. Yes there was a bit of danger. I was careful. The water felt slightly cold, and I almost didn’t go in, saying to myself, well, “It’s good enough if you just wade in the water.” But no, finally, I decided to go for it, and I jumped in fully. “It was wonderful.” Once I got in, the water was fine. It wasn’t cold at all. I loved it. I swam for a full 20 minutes before getting out. I knew it was 20 minutes, because I had my Sturghling Coca Cola GMT Dive Watch on. It worked. The watch was waterproof. I was willing to take a chance with that watch in the water, but not my much more expensive Bulova Dive Watch that I purchased recently, and is my new favorite watch since I got it. Love it. It’s a really beautiful watch dive watch, a Bulova Oceanographer, with a Red & Black Bezel, similar to a Rolex GMT Master.
The next day, (May 16,2022) I swam again. This time at Marina Piccolo. A place I love to swim. I walked all the way down from my room at Casa Raiolo, I walked down to Due Golfi, and then down the pathway to Marina Piccolo. It took about 35 minutes, It was a nice walk, and I stopped and took another picture at the Capri Sign that’s down there. I took a nice picture there in 2015, and wanted to get another one here on my Capri Trip 2022. I asked a passerby to take my picture. He was an American and he took his time taking the picture. “Thanks whoever you are.” I staked my spot, asked some people to watch my stuff and went in. It was a bit chilly, but unlike yesterday, there were other people swimming in the water. I dove in. Damn, it was cold. Colder than yesterday. I thought maybe if I swam out to another spot further out, it might be warmer. I was right. I swam and floated around, had a great time, doing my usual thing. It was great. I swam for 20 minutes, with my Sturghling Diver Watch on, then got out. Another great time swimming off Capri. “I’m The American Champ on Capri.” I don’t think many more Americans have spent more time swimming around Capri than me. “Seriously, it’s probably true.” Anyway?
This was my 4th time staying on The Isle of Capri, not including the one time I went just for the day in 2019. I had a great time swimming and hanging around Capri that day, taking the ferry back and forth from Naples, a thing most people who say they’ve been to Capri say. But that’s not seeing Capri. You have to stay a minimum of two days, and 3 would be better. You’ve not really seen Capri, if you haven’t stayed there. Yes I know it’s a bit expensive? But go anyway. Make it the splurge part of your trip. “I do.”
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
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Best Selling Italian Cookbook Author
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
2022
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Me on CAPRI
Boat from Da Luigi Beach Club to Marina Piccola
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TAKE a BOAT TOUR
CAPRI
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- Swim and snorkel on the island of Capri
- Enjoy a full-day trip to Capri with an expert guide
- Tour the island by boat and on foot
See everything the island of Capri has to offer on a full-day excursion by boat with an expert guide. Enjoy a small-group experience along with the perfect combination of a guided tour and free time to explore.
Get picked up at the Parking Mandara in Positano and head to the port of Piano di Sorrento.
Set off on a comfortable and elegant boat along the Sorrento coast to Capri.
Along the way, you’ll pass the ancient fishing village, Marina Grande, and the ruins of a Roman villa near Bagni della Regina Giovanna. You’ll also get to admire lovely rock formations and waterfalls.
Upon arrival to Capri, tour the island first by boat, making stops at the Marvelous Grotto, the White Grotto, and the Green Grotto, admiring the Natural Arch, the Villa Curzio Malaparte, the Faraglioni rocks, and the Lighthouse of Punta Carena along the way.
Enjoy a couple of stops for swimming and snorkeling, and a relaxing break with snacks and drinks on board. Next, it’s time to tour the island on foot, with 3 to 5 hours to do as you please.
Your departure from Capri will be bittersweet – literally because you’re invited to a Limoncello tasting before you board the boat.
- Pickup and drop-off from meeting point
- Professional, English-speaking skipper – Dry snacks, Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, Snorkeling equipment – Visit to the Blue Grotto
Orecchiette Street Bari Italy – Nunzia Makes Pasta – Recipe
NUNZIA
The FAMOUS ORECCHIETTE PASTA LADY
BARI, ITALY
WATCH NUNZIA MAKE ORECCHIETTE
BARI, ITALY
Nunzia is the most Famous Orecchiette on The Orecchiette Street
In Barivecchia BARI, ITALY
Watch Best Selling Italian Cookbook Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke
as He Meets Up with Nunzia to Watch her Expert Pasta Making Skills
Nunzia Invites Daniel into Her Home in Barivecchia (Old Town of Bar)
For a Tasty Bowl of her Famous Orecchiette and a glass of Wine and Limoncello
Daniel said, “I’m in 7th Heaven. This is Amazing ! I Love this Woman”
NUNZIA
Nunzia chats with these two Barese Fellows
She keeps making Orecchiette, as her Mother Looks On
NUNZIA is a GEM “We LOVE HER”
So will You. Look for this dear sweet Lady on The ORECCHIETTE STREET
BARIVECCHIA – Bari, Italy
Video made by Best Selling Italian Cookbook author Daniel Belllino Zwicke
Author of SUNDAY SAUCE, Grandma Bellino’s Cookbook, Segreto Italiano
And his latest BEST SELLER – POSITANO The AMALFI COAST – Travel Guide Cookbook
NONNA BELLINO’S COOKBOOK
Daniel Hanging with Nunzia
BARIVECCHIA
Bari, Italy
PUGLIA
Hanging on CAPRI – Bar Tiberio – The BEACH Grotto Azzurro
Bar Tiberio
Piazza Umberto
CAPRI
Author Daniel Bellino
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
I first started going to Bar Tiberio in the Summer of 1986, my second trip to Italy. The year before I went to Europe for the 1st time, visiting : Rome, Florence, San Gigmanano, Barcelon, The Costa Brava, Venice, and Naples, and Positano, but not Capri, which I’d go to the next year, along with Rome and Positano.
So my first trip to Capri. It was quite something. The Summer of 86. I stayed at Villa Tosca, at the time a nice , modest pensione that I found in my Frommer’s Guide, Europe on $40 a Day. I took the train from Rome down to Napoli Centrale Train Station. From there I took a bus to the port to catch a ferry to Capri. Back then they had cool old steamer boats that ferried you across to Capri. The boats were slower than the ones now, but better looking than the much faster ugly boats they have these days. The boats make it from Naples to Capri in about 35 minutes, while the old boats took an hour and 15 minutes. That first time, I sat outside on the upper deck of the boat and the ride was absolutely wonderful. I soaked in the Sun, and all that lay before me.
I arrive in Marina Grande Capri a little over an hour after we left the dock in Napoli. Again, it was a most beautiful boat ride. I made my way to a phone and called up Tosca. Yes they had a room. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown. When I got off the Funicular I was to walk straight through the Piazza and down to the Quisisana Hotel, where I would straddle the right hand side of the hotel in the alleyway next to it, that led down to the Via Augustus, were I would see a sign going into a pathway that would bring me to Villa Tosca.
Villa Tosca, is still owned by the same family, but the son has turned it from a modest pensione, to a cool little boutique hotel that is now called La Tosca. The vantage point of the hotel is primo, sitting in-between the Carthusian Monastary, The Qusisisana Hotel, and The Piazza Umberto, a 5 minute walk away. Very convenient, and in one of the most beautiful spots in the whole Isle of Capri, with a gorgeous view of The Monastary and The Farglioni Rocks in the near distance, “Absolutely Gorgeous. I made a great find.” Back then it cost me $40 a day to stay, which was about double the price of the pensione’s I was staying in at the time, in: Rome, but both Venice and Positano were more expensive as well. I was happy. I knew Capri was a bit more expensive than other places, but I was happy. Speaking of expensive, my last to times on this gorgeous island, the place has gotten insanely expensive. More on that later.
That first time, I was mystified at the beauty of the Faraglioni off in the distance. I had a great view from my little private terrazzo. Looking at them, as they sprouted from the sea, they seemed to be beckoning me, and they were. I had to go there. I took a show, put on my shorts and I was on my way. I asked directions, and walked over. I didn’t know at the time, but I was walking the length of the Via Tragara, where that pedestrian street ended, and then I would take the pathway down to the Rock, Da Luigi Beach Club, and La Fontelina.
Wow, talk about gorgeous? The views on my way down were spectacular. I let me not forget. There’s a cute little old Lemonade Stand there at the end of Via Tragara. I stopped and got my second Lemonade of the day. My 1st being at the piazzetta after I got off the Funicular. Both lemonade (Granita) stands are still there, as well as the one on Via Augustus by La Tosca. Anyway, I walked down, taking pictures along the way. I reached the bottom and walked over to the free beach near by. I did my first swimming on Capri. I would come back and swim around Capri many times. I Love it. I’m not a beach person, but when I go to Capri, and Positano, I do love swimming there.
I couldn’t beleive how many people from New York taht I met in Capri on that my first trip. I was swimming at Marina Piccolo and this girl started talking to me, and was excited when I told her I was from New York. She was there with her mother and grandma who lived in Naples. Her mother went to visit her mom, and they’d go to Capri every year. The girl Maria wanted me to meet them. She took me over to them and introduced us. It so happened that her mother and father owned
Benito II Restaurant on Mulberry Street in Little Italy, New York. We became friends and I’d often go down to eat at Benito. I’m glad I went into the Hotel Palma this one night. They have a beautiful garden in front of the hotel, and there are large French Doors at the beautiful lobby hotel. The doors stay open, and I could here live music from the bar inside. I went in. A girl was playing piano and singing lovely music. I sat down at the bar. I got my Negroni, and couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw this guy Tony, who owned a little clothing store in New York where I had bought a couple things from him. We were both happy to see each other, we chit chatted and hung out. A girl came up to the bar that Tony knew. Her name was Alessandra, and she had a villa on Capri. She was from Naples origianally but now lived in New York, and she was a customer at the restaurant Caio Bella that I worked at, but I’d never seen her, as I was a cook there, and though I saw some of the customers, I didn’t see all of them as I was busy cooking in the kitchen. We became friends, and I hung out with her for the rest of the trip, going to her villa with others later in the night.
It was Alessandra who got me to go to Bar Tiberio the first time. The first two times I went to Capri, I had a routine, wereby I’d go down to the beach somewhere around 10 or 10:30 in the morning. Hand-out, swim, and then around lunch time have lunch at a bar or trattoria down at Marina Piccolo. Go back to the beach, and then around 3;30, hop on a bus by the little chapel that would bring me up to Capritown, just a 200 foot walk to the Piazza where I went with Alessandra and a few others to Bar Tiberio for afternoon cocktails (Aperitivo). I usually had a Campari & Orange Jucie or a Negroni, and the waiter would bring us Potato Chips and Olives to nibble on with are cocktails. I did I love that, hanging out there at the bar in the Piazza, sipping Italian Cocktails, hanging with the beautiful people (as they say, and they were), relaxing, taking it all in, and loving every minute of it. “I felt like a King.” And I was.
The Famed FARAGLIONI I Was Talking About
Having an APEROL SPRITZ
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
Yes, I do Love the Bar Tiberio. It’s a great place to hang and have a good time. You’re in Capri, you have to feel good. I must say for those who might be on a limited budget, yes it’s not cheap. Not cheap, but well worth a splurge. To some, money is no object, so that don’t even think about it. Though I remember the price of my hotel (Tosca was $40 a day), I can’t remember the price of the drinks, probably about $4 or $5 for a Negroni or Campari back then. My APerol Spritz in 2022 cost
14 Euros, but it does come with a good amount of snacks which Cosantino my favorite waiter brought me. Cosantino took great care of me, the 6 times I went to Bar Tiberio on this particular trip. I was also drinking glasses of Falanghina (11 Euro), and I met a couple who were staying at the same hotel that I was, we wnt out for dinner at Risitorante Isadoro, then went to Tiberio afterwards and we got a bottle of Falanghina Fenicia that cost $45 a bottle. I had a Lasagan Bolognese (14 E) there one night. It was quite tasty.
So, if you’re into people watching and hanging out, sitting outside at a wonderful caffe on the beautiful Isle of Capri, Bar Tiberio is the way to go. Normally you go there just for drinks, anytime in the afternoon or evening. You can get breakfast in the morning, a Cappuccino and Italian Pastries if you like, and time of day. You can have Gelato, a Panino (Sandwich) Pizza, or Pasta or whatever you lie, they’ve got it all, but most of all it’s the physicality and ambiance, the cocktails, people watching, and waiters (who take great care of you) who matter the most.
On my last night there in 2022, after I had gone to the bathroom, I saw a guy sitting at a table inside. I wanted to get a picture at the Bar. I asked if he wouldn’t mind. He took a great picture of me (above). We were chatting, and I found out that his name was Francesco and his family owned the bar. I told him that I had started going to Bar Tiberio in the Smmmer of 1986, “probably before you were born,” I told Francesco. He told be that his parents bought the Bar in 1982, the year Francesco was born. “Oh” I said, “you were 4 years old when I started coming here” Francesco chuckled. We had a nice little chat. It was great meeting and talking with Francesco. I hope to see him again.
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
May 22, 2022
NYC
FIND a ROOM on CAPRI
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
CAPRI
The SUMMIT of Mt SOLARO
Looking down to The Faraglioni and Sorrento in the Distance
A CAPRI TAXI
MARINA PICCOLO 2022
The ONLY OLD TAXI LEFT
Another Aperol Spritz
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRITOWN
CAPRI, ITALY
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PIAZZA UMERTO
CAPRI
VINO & SNACKS
BAR TIBERIO
DELICIOUS in CAPRI
SALUMERIA / GROCERIA
MARINA GRANDE
RAVIOLI CAPRESE
A GLASS of BIANCOLELLA
RISTORANTE ISADORO
Hanging at BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
2022
ANOTHER APEROL SPRITZ
CHURCH of San MICHELE ARCANGELO
ANACAPRI
CAPRI
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At My Hotel
CASA RAIOLO
LOOKING DOWN to MARINA GRANDE
From ANACAPRI
EDUARDO
BARBER at CARTHUSIAN BARBER SHOP
CAPRI
PINO with MY PANINO
DELICIOUS in CAPRI SALUMERIA
Back in ITALY 2022 Positano Capri The Amalfi Coast
Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke
At His Hotel in CAPRI
“BACK in ITALY” !!!
2022
LOCOROTONDO
PUGLIA
TRULLI in ALBEROBELLO
ITALY
“A LAND of ENCHANTMENT”
A Wine Bar in ALBEROBELLO
NEED a ROOM in ALBEROBELLO ?
“HAVE a UNIQUE STAY in a BEAUTIFUL TRULLO”
STAY in YOUR VERY OWN TRULLO
In The CHARMING TOWN of ALBEROBELLO ITALY
“A WORLD UNESCO SIGHT”
TRULLI
ALBEROBELLO, ITALY
For ONE of The WORLDS MOST UNIQUE EXPERIENCES
BEST SELLING COOKBOOK TRAVEL WRITER
DANIEL BELLINO ZWICKE
In ALBEROBELLO
ITALY TRAVEL
SPRING 2022
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
CAPRI NAPLES SORRENTO
RAVELLO & ISCHIA
“DON’T GO to The AMALFI COAST WITHOUT IT”
CAPRI TAXI
MARINA GRANDE
CAPRI
Looking to The FARAGLIONI
From The Summit of MONTE SOLARO
Copyright Daniel Bellino Zwicke 2015
View From Anacapri
The Top of The PHOENICIAN STAIRS
Need a ROOM on CAPRI POSITANO
The AMALFI COAST ITALY
And The WORLD
POSITANO
“The SNEAKER”
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
ITALY
ITALIA
LEMONS
On The AMALFI COAST
“BACK in POSITANO”
The AMALFI COAST
Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Back in Positano
Relaxing on The Amalfi Coast
“RELAXATION”
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NEED a HOTEL ?
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
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POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
Top 10 Things to Do in Positano on Amalfi Coast Vacation ITALY
POSITANO
The AMALFI COAST
TOP 10 THINGS to DO on YOUR VACATION
#1 – The BEACH
# 2 – EATING !!!
DRINKING & DOING NOTHING
BUT HAVING a GREAT TIME
HANG OUT at RESTAURANTS
BARS – CAFFE ‘S
EAT DRINK & BE MERRY
THAT’S WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT
# 2
# 3 – PRIVATE BOAT POSITANO to CAPRI
And The AMALFI COAST
RESERVATIONS & INFO
Full description
# 4 – SCOOTER TOUR
Of The AMALFI COAST
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# 5 – VISIT POMPEII & MOUNT VESUVIUS
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POMPEII
POMPEII – VESUVIUS BOAT TOUR
With WINERY TASTING LUNCH
# 6 – POMPEII – VESUVIUS – WINE LUNCH
RESERVATIONS
Start your day of adventure by meeting your driver/guide at your hotel. After a short meet and greet, take a brief, scenic drive to the port of Piano di Sorrento. From here you will depart by boat to the port of Castellammare di Stabia where the fun begins.
From your docking point at Castellammare di Stabia you will take a scenic transfer via bus to Pompeii and enjoy a 2.5-hour visit. Take a walk through the living ruins of this ancient city with your experienced, authorized guide who will teach you everything you need to know about this famous place.
Once the visit of Pompeii is over, relax for a while and have lunch in a traditional vineyard. Then, depart from Pompeii to visit Mount Vesuvius, once the site of a live volcano, and learn about this natural wonder with the assistance of a professional guide.
From Mount Vesuvius, you will take a transfer back to Castellammare di Stabia before departing by boat to Sorrento. You will take a scenic sailing trip along the coast and have the chance to take a dip in the crystal clear waters. After your sailing trip return to the port of Piano di Sorrento and be transferred back to your hotel.
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PATH of The GODS
# 7 – HIKE The PATH of The GODS
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
ITALY
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And SIGHTSEEING TOUR
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TOUR DESCRIPTION
Get a true taste of one of Italy’s culinary capitals on a food and sightseeing tour of Naples. Spend some time exploring the city, stopping at the city’s main squares and basilicas, as well as at hidden eateries to sample traditional dishes. Learn the history of Naples as you make your way from one mini-feast to the next, dining on everything from zucchini flowers to Ragù, Baccalà, and pizza. Come hungry: the tasting tour is a meal in itself. Food and sightseeing tour of downtown Naples Enjoy a morning or evening tour in one of Italy’s culinary capitals Sample some of the area’s best regional cuisine, such as ragù, Sfogliatelle, Spaghetti, and Pizza Explore Naples’ cultural attractions between tastings Includes vegetarian options.
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# 9 – LEARN HOW to MAKE PIZZA
NAPLES PIZZA MAKING / TASTING DAY
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# 10 – PRIVATE TOUR of The AMALFI COAST
PRIVATE CAR
TOUR POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
RAVELLO POSITANO AMALFI
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See the stunning Amalfi Coast at your own speed on this private, full-day trip from Naples. After creating your own itinerary, sit back and enjoy as a private driver takes you along the coast, making stops in the most beautiful villages in southern Italy: Positano, Sorrento, Ravello and Amalfi. Get a true taste of the region’s rich history, architecture, cuisine and more before concluding with drop-off back in Naples. Private full-day tour of the Amalfi Coast from Naples Choose your own itinerary The four pearls of the Amalfi Coast: Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Ravello Option to have an English-speaking guide Private chauffeur-driven car Hotel pick-up and drop-off.
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The 10 Best Caffes in Naples – Italian Coffee
The GRANDE CAFFE GAMBRIBUS
NAPOLI
You have to try hard not to drink good coffee in Naples. Every neighborhood bar is a window into the vivacity of that sliver of Neapolitan territory. The first thing I do every morning after rolling out of bed and making myself look generally presentable (locals might argue that lululemon pants and crocs do not qualify as presentable Napoli- and who am I to quibble) is head to the bar across the street from my house. I go for the company. The invasive inquiries into my personal life. The exchange of hyper local recipes and even more hyper local gossip. This is the bar where I start my day. Twelve hours later, I will also end my day here with a spritz or a gingerino and a complex discussion of what was for lunch and what will be for dinner and how I will spend my Easter and whether I will make or buy my pastiera. It may only be February, and yet this is the idle chatter heard in Neapolitan bars everyday across the city. To know Napoli is to know her bars. Below are the most iconic.
1. BAR MEXICO, PIAZZA GARIBALDI
Today Bar Mexico is a franchise and the Passalacqua coffee it serves is available in markets all over the South of Italy. The original Bar Mexico in Piazza Garibaldi feels straight out of the 1960s. The harsh artificial lighting, bright orange décor and barista uniforms transport you to booming post WWII Naples. Coffee is richly thick and served sugared and in a hot cup or tazza calda, the way most Neapolitans prefer. Most locals will also tell you this Bar Mexico is home to the best espresso in all of Napoli. The baristas are also among the town’s most talented.
2. GRAN CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS
No trip to Napoli is complete without a visit to the Belle Èpoque Gambrinus. You can order your coffee on the go while standing up at the bar. However, I highly suggest indulging in the luxurious seated ritual of sipping afternoon coffee and nibbling on a sweet when visiting Gambrinus. Inside, Gambrinus is drenched in old world tapestried luxury. Outside, on the terrace, you can appreciate views of the Teatro San Carlo. Gambrinus is also a traditional watering hole for the opera loving crowds who flock here before heading to the famed theater across the street. Gambrinus is certainly not where I drink my daily coffee, and nor should it be. This is a place to be savored on special occasions, preferably before heading to the opera.
3. IL VERO BAR DEL PROFESSORE
Down the street from Gambrinus, you will find the slightly more rustic, but charming Vero Bar del Professore. Order the caffè alla nocciola (hazelnut coffee), a perfect shot of whipped cream and hazelnut coffee that is possibly one of the finest afternoon treats I have sampled in Naples, or anywhere for that matter. The congenial baristas will happily explain the history of Naples, coffee and their lives to you if you don’t watch out.
4. SPAZIO NEA
This is not a typical Neapolitan bar, yet in recent years it has grown on me. It offers a tranquil respite in the busy centro storico on the steps of Piazza Bellini- which after sunset becomes a blunt-smoking circus. Nea is calm, plush and has wifi. Better yet, they, unlike most bars in Naples, permit you to work on your laptop here. It is still uncommon to work in coffee bars in Naples. Nea, is of the younger spirit and will happily allow you to pass the day working and sipping away.
5. GRAN CAFFÈ CIMMINO
The paneled wood interior and busy morning crowds make Gran Caffè Cimmino an indispensible Neapolitan institution. Come here at the height of morning rush hour, around 8, order a caffè and cornetto (croissant) and just watch. Also note that in Naples we don’t eat our brioche and drink our coffee at the same time. First eat your cornetto. Then drink your caffè. To decipher Neapolitan morning rituals, come to Cimmino.
6. GRAN CAFFÈ LA CAFFETTIERA
This is my ladies meet-up spot. On Piazza dei Martiri in the heart of classy Chiaia is this lovely old world jewel. Take a seat on the outdoor terrace in the spring, order an espresso and brioche and watch the elegant ladies of Chiaia and their pampered pups stroll down the grand boulevards of Naples.
7. CAFFÈ CIORFITO
Explore the central artery of Spaccanapoli and stop at this beloved bar for a piccola pausa caffè. This is one of those bars you don’t appreciate until you leave and live outside of Naples. I used to enjoy an espresso here nearly every morning and never really fully grasped how richly sublime it was until I was stuck drinking burnt Tuscan coffee for two months. The espresso here is so thick you can nearly stick a demi-spoon straight up in it. Perfection.
8. CAFE DO BRASIL
This is the best coffee in the Vomero. Strictly a stand up, drink and get on your way cafe, this is a spot for serious coffee lovers on the move. If you are seeking seated respite, head up to Piazza Vanvitelli.
9. GRAN CAFFÈ NEAPOLIS
I finally began to ‘get’ Naples after a post-lunch visit to this café on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. The hyper-kinetic movement, the shouting, the bits of cookie crumbs furtively clinging to office workers’ shirts, this is the nucleus (or the under belly) of Napule. I do not suggest sitting down here. To fully experience the Naples pausa caffè (coffee break), one mustcome here, order espresso in a tazza calda, stand up and drink. Don’t burn your lips on the hot cup!
10. BAR AUGUSTUS
Stendhal called Via Toledo “the most crowded and the gayest street in the universe.” I think he would have enjoyed this bar in the middle of the crowded avenue. Via Toledo is a central shopping hub in Naples, and Bar August is an excellent spot to stop after a long day of shopping and gallivanting. It is more than simply a bar. It is a pasticceria and tavola calda, offering snacks, both sweet and savory throughout the day. Also a prime spot for an afternoon tipple and nibble.
BAR MEXICO
“The best coffee in Italy”!
With these words, Mario Soldati,
writer and director, defined a coffee
drunk at the counter
of the Bar Mexico in Naples.
He had just drunk Passalacqua Caffè
AL PACINO
DIEGO MARADONA
An ESPRESSO at BAR MEXICO
NAPOLI
On The AMALFI COAST
ANDREA PANSA
AMALFI
PANSA is EASILY OUR FAVORITE CAFFE
AMALFI
WE LOVE GAMBARDELLA TOO
PASTICCERRIA CAFFEE
GAMBARADELLA
MINORI, ITALY
SFOGLIATELLE & ESPRESSO
GAMBARADELLA
MINORI
POSITANO 