Marilyn Monroe’s birthday is definitely something to celebrate.
The Hollywood icon would have been 96 on June 1 and to commemorate the milestone, Julien’s Auctions is selling her personal effects and memorabilia.
Fans will be able to bid on items such as her film costumes, lingerie, jewelry, photographs, handwritten notes, files and other relics from her life and career.
In conjunction with Turner Classic Movies, the auction — titled “Hollywood Legends” — will be carried out in Beverly Hills, California, from July 15 to July 17.
The collection features keepsakes from Monroe’s famous films such as “How To Marry a Millionaire,” “There’s No Business Like Show Business,” “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,” “Some Like It Hot,” “Bus Stop,” “Let’s Make Love”
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARILYN
Julien’s is hosting its second annual birthday tribute in the form of an online only auction to Hollywood’s most enduring blonde, Marilyn Monroe, on what would have been her 95th Birthday, June 1st.
We will have over 200 lots on offer, all celebrating Marilyn including: rare 1950s-era vintage magazines, museum-quality photographs, a huge assortment of collectibles (some of which never made it to the market), and out-of-print books and biographies, among countless other items all related to the star.
This is a “something for everyone” type of auction as estimates are all under $500 and there will be no reserves on any lot.
We know you’ll want to participate in what promises to be an exciting “virtual birthday party auction” for our favorite blonde!
I first started gong to Capri in the Summer of 1986. I was a young man in my early 20s, and travel was so much different than it is now. First off, there was no internet back then, No Expedia, no Booking.com , to check out info on anything or anyplace, no Whatsapp to send text and talk on the phone for Free anywhere in the World. You couldn’t look up and buy Airline Tickets by yourself, you had to go through a Travel Agent, or purchase a plane ticket directly from the airline. You only info came from your own personal research from books and magazine articles, past experiences, and advice and info from friends.
Back then in 1986 and before, most people if they were traveling to Italy, to Capri, or anywhere in the World would buy Travel Guide Books, like Baedekers, Fodors, Frommer Guides, and any number of Travel Guide Books available at the time. Rick Steves was just starting out back then, and I did buy his Europe Through The Back Door guide book, along with Europe on $40 a Day, which was my main source at the time. When it came to finding accommodations. Typically, for any place that you were traveling too : Rome, Paris, etc., there would be info on the main attractions to see, how to get around, restaurant suggestions, and a list of hotel accommodations in 3 price categories : of Budget Hotels, Moderate Priced, and Luxury Hotels.
With my Frommer’s Guide in had, on this my second trip to Italy, I got my hotel in Rome from the Frommer’s recommendation, and I looked up budget hotels in Capri. There was I think only 2 under the budget range as I recall. I picked the Villa Tosca at $40 a night. So they way I did it back then, I had my list of budget , I get into town, and either go to the property or give them a call from a cafe or on a payphone somewhere, when I got to my destination.
So the first time I went to Capri, I took the ferry boat, and when I arrived in Marina Grande, Capri, and got off the boat, and walked down the dock, and once I came across a payphone, I gave them a call at Villa Tosca. I asked if they had any rooms available? They did. They asked me where I was. I told them that I had juts gotten off the ferry boat and was down by the port. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown, and when I got off, just walk straithgt through the Piazza and then down toward the Hotel Quisisana The hotel was behind the Quisisana. Just walk the alleyway alongside the hotel and I would come across a sign that pointed to the Villa Tosca. And so I did.
When I got off of the Funicular, I spotted a cute little Lemonade Stand (Lemon Granita). It was hot out, and I couldn’t resist. I got a Lemonade. Best Lemonade I’ve ever had. It was cold and refreshing, and I Loved it. The Lemonade Stand is still there in the Piazzetta. The only difference is that instead of less than a dollar for a Lemonade, the now (2022) cost a Whopping $5 ..
I walked down toward the Quisisana. It came into view. A beautiful Grand Old Hotel. I walked down the pathway, and right before the Via Augustus. I saw the sign and followed the pathway. I came to it, Villa Tosca, which back then was a simple pensione. Today it is no longer called Villa Tosca. It is owned by the same family, but a few years back, the son turned it into a nice little boutique hotel and changed the name to “La Tosca” (hotel). I gave them my Passport, then checked into my room. It was late afternoon. I left Rome in the morning, bound for Naples Central Station. I arrived about 3 hours later. I walked outside the train station, and found the bus that went to the Porto. I hopped on, and arrived about 15 minutes later. Got on the ferry and went to Capri, and now I’m at my little hotel. I took a shower, got dressed and went out. I had seen the Faraglioni from my balcony. I went out on the main terrazzo of the hotel and just starred at them. The Faraglioni were beckining my to them, and I just started walking toward them. The walk along the Via Tragara was gorgeous. I passed all the beautiful villas along the way. Villas owned by Valentino, Armani, Sophia Loren and others with the means to own them. I loved it. When I got down to the end of the Via Tragara, I saw another Lemonade Stand. I got one. This little old lemonade stand is still there. Same story, a Lemonade has gone from $1 to 5. I could see the Faraglioni. They were Gorgeous. I walked down the path, getting one beautiful view after the other. I was mesmerized. One of the most beautiful sights of my life. I walked all the way down, taking pictures along the way.
The first beach I ever swam at was Marina Piccolo, way back on that 1st trip in 1986. I met a couple girls from South Africa, and the 3 of us went to the beach there. It was great, and it started my Caari Ritual of going swimming on Capri (any beach) then catching a bus back to Capritown, getting off the bus, and heading straight to Bar Tiberio in the Piazza Umberto for some afternoon Aperitivo of Campari, Negroni s, Lemonade, or glass of local wine.
If I was at Da Luigi Beach Club, I’d take the boat from Da Luigi to Marina Piccolo, and pick up the bus to Capritown at the Little Chapel at Marina Piccolo. I Love Da Luigi, not only one of my favorite swim spots on Capri, but one of my favorite places in the entire World to go swimming. It’s gorgeous. Right there smack-dab next to the famed Faraglioni Rocks of Capri. When I went there in 2015, I started a new ritual whereby I go to the Salumeria Capri (by the bus station Capritown) to get a nice Beach Lunch to bring with me to Da Luigi. I usually get a Arancini (Rice Ball) some Eggpant Parmigiana, a bottle of Mineral Water, and a small bottle of local Red Wine, usually Aglianico. I love it. They make really good food at Saluneria Capri, and I go there often for Arancini, Panini, water and Wine when I’m on Capri.
I’m not normally a beach person, nut when I’m on Capri, I Love to go swimming. It so refreshing, and I like it. When I go into the water, I usually stay in for 15 to 20 minutes at a time. Same in Positano. I just swim out and float, and have a wonderful time. I love swimming out, and just lie floating on my back and look at the cliffs as the shoot out of the Sea, soaring to heights of 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the Sea. It’s quite a dramatic sight on Capri, or if I’m swimming in Positano, the views as you float in the water, looking back to the island, is mesmerizing. “I Love it”
I was surprised when I decided one day to swim at the beach at Marina Grande one day, I think it was 2019. I had always thought that it would be too crowded and maybe the water over there. It wasn’t. In fact it was quite clean, and I had a great time swimming there. I swam there, again on my most recent trip, in the Spring of 2022. It was the middle of May, and it was not hot out. It was a bit chilly, but I wanted to swim. “I’m not going to Capri, and not swim. Mo way.” I decided to head over to the Beach at Marina Grande. When I got there, there were people at the beach, but not even 1 person was swimming, no one at all. I staked out my territory, and put my swim trunks that were in my backpack on. I just took off my pants. I had underwear on, so I wasn’t indecent. I put on my trunks. There were 3 people together there hanging-out next to me. I asked them to watch my stuff. “OK,” they said. I started walking into the water with my new swim shoes. They guy told me, “Ne careful. Be careful of the Rock.” I knew what he meant, There are a lot of rocks there, and you have to be careful not to fall and hit yourself on the rock. You could really get hurt if you didn’t pay attention. You could get hurt bad. Yes there was a bit of danger. I was careful. The water felt slightly cold, and I almost didn’t go in, saying to myself, well, “It’s good enough if you just wade in the water.” But no, finally, I decided to go for it, and I jumped in fully. “It was wonderful.” Once I got in, the water was fine. It wasn’t cold at all. I loved it. I swam for a full 20 minutes before getting out. I knew it was 20 minutes, because I had my Sturghling Coca Cola GMT Dive Watch on. It worked. The watch was waterproof. I was willing to take a chance with that watch in the water, but not my much more expensive Bulova Dive Watch that I purchased recently, and is my new favorite watch since I got it. Love it. It’s a really beautiful watch dive watch, a Bulova Oceanographer, with a Red & Black Bezel, similar to a Rolex GMT Master.
The next day, (May 16,2022) I swam again. This time at Marina Piccolo. A place I love to swim. I walked all the way down from my room at Casa Raiolo, I walked down to Due Golfi, and then down the pathway to Marina Piccolo. It took about 35 minutes, It was a nice walk, and I stopped and took another picture at the Capri Sign that’s down there. I took a nice picture there in 2015, and wanted to get another one here on my Capri Trip 2022. I asked a passerby to take my picture. He was an American and he took his time taking the picture. “Thanks whoever you are.” I staked my spot, asked some people to watch my stuff and went in. It was a bit chilly, but unlike yesterday, there were other people swimming in the water. I dove in. Damn, it was cold. Colder than yesterday. I thought maybe if I swam out to another spot further out, it might be warmer. I was right. I swam and floated around, had a great time, doing my usual thing. It was great. I swam for 20 minutes, with my Sturghling Diver Watch on, then got out. Another great time swimming off Capri. “I’m The American Champ on Capri.” I don’t think many more Americans have spent more time swimming around Capri than me. “Seriously, it’s probably true.” Anyway?
This was my 4th time staying on The Isle of Capri, not including the one time I went just for the day in 2019. I had a great time swimming and hanging around Capri that day, taking the ferry back and forth from Naples, a thing most people who say they’ve been to Capri say. But that’s not seeing Capri. You have to stay a minimum of two days, and 3 would be better. You’ve not really seen Capri, if you haven’t stayed there. Yes I know it’s a bit expensive? But go anyway. Make it the splurge part of your trip. “I do.”
Enjoy a full-day trip to Capri with an expert guide
Tour the island by boat and on foot
See everything the island of Capri has to offer on a full-day excursion by boat with an expert guide. Enjoy a small-group experience along with the perfect combination of a guided tour and free time to explore.
Get picked up at the Parking Mandara in Positano and head to the port of Piano di Sorrento.
Set off on a comfortable and elegant boat along the Sorrento coast to Capri.
Along the way, you’ll pass the ancient fishing village, Marina Grande, and the ruins of a Roman villa near Bagni della Regina Giovanna. You’ll also get to admire lovely rock formations and waterfalls.
Upon arrival to Capri, tour the island first by boat, making stops at the Marvelous Grotto, the White Grotto, and the Green Grotto, admiring the Natural Arch, the Villa Curzio Malaparte, the Faraglioni rocks, and the Lighthouse of Punta Carena along the way.
Enjoy a couple of stops for swimming and snorkeling, and a relaxing break with snacks and drinks on board. Next, it’s time to tour the island on foot, with 3 to 5 hours to do as you please.
Your departure from Capri will be bittersweet – literally because you’re invited to a Limoncello tasting before you board the boat.
I first started going to Bar Tiberio in the Summer of 1986, my second trip to Italy. The year before I went to Europe for the 1st time, visiting : Rome, Florence, San Gigmanano, Barcelon, The Costa Brava, Venice, and Naples, and Positano, but not Capri, which I’d go to the next year, along with Rome and Positano.
So my first trip to Capri. It was quite something. The Summer of 86. I stayed at Villa Tosca, at the time a nice , modest pensione that I found in my Frommer’s Guide, Europe on $40 a Day. I took the train from Rome down to Napoli Centrale Train Station. From there I took a bus to the port to catch a ferry to Capri. Back then they had cool old steamer boats that ferried you across to Capri. The boats were slower than the ones now, but better looking than the much faster ugly boats they have these days. The boats make it from Naples to Capri in about 35 minutes, while the old boats took an hour and 15 minutes. That first time, I sat outside on the upper deck of the boat and the ride was absolutely wonderful. I soaked in the Sun, and all that lay before me.
I arrive in Marina Grande Capri a little over an hour after we left the dock in Napoli. Again, it was a most beautiful boat ride. I made my way to a phone and called up Tosca. Yes they had a room. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown. When I got off the Funicular I was to walk straight through the Piazza and down to the Quisisana Hotel, where I would straddle the right hand side of the hotel in the alleyway next to it, that led down to the Via Augustus, were I would see a sign going into a pathway that would bring me to Villa Tosca.
Villa Tosca, is still owned by the same family, but the son has turned it from a modest pensione, to a cool little boutique hotel that is now called La Tosca. The vantage point of the hotel is primo, sitting in-between the Carthusian Monastary, The Qusisisana Hotel, and The Piazza Umberto, a 5 minute walk away. Very convenient, and in one of the most beautiful spots in the whole Isle of Capri, with a gorgeous view of The Monastary and The Farglioni Rocks in the near distance, “Absolutely Gorgeous. I made a great find.” Back then it cost me $40 a day to stay, which was about double the price of the pensione’s I was staying in at the time, in: Rome, but both Venice and Positano were more expensive as well. I was happy. I knew Capri was a bit more expensive than other places, but I was happy. Speaking of expensive, my last to times on this gorgeous island, the place has gotten insanely expensive. More on that later.
That first time, I was mystified at the beauty of the Faraglioni off in the distance. I had a great view from my little private terrazzo. Looking at them, as they sprouted from the sea, they seemed to be beckoning me, and they were. I had to go there. I took a show, put on my shorts and I was on my way. I asked directions, and walked over. I didn’t know at the time, but I was walking the length of the Via Tragara, where that pedestrian street ended, and then I would take the pathway down to the Rock, Da Luigi Beach Club, and La Fontelina.
Wow, talk about gorgeous? The views on my way down were spectacular. I let me not forget. There’s a cute little old Lemonade Stand there at the end of Via Tragara. I stopped and got my second Lemonade of the day. My 1st being at the piazzetta after I got off the Funicular. Both lemonade (Granita) stands are still there, as well as the one on Via Augustus by La Tosca. Anyway, I walked down, taking pictures along the way. I reached the bottom and walked over to the free beach near by. I did my first swimming on Capri. I would come back and swim around Capri many times. I Love it. I’m not a beach person, but when I go to Capri, and Positano, I do love swimming there.
I couldn’t beleive how many people from New York taht I met in Capri on that my first trip. I was swimming at Marina Piccolo and this girl started talking to me, and was excited when I told her I was from New York. She was there with her mother and grandma who lived in Naples. Her mother went to visit her mom, and they’d go to Capri every year. The girl Maria wanted me to meet them. She took me over to them and introduced us. It so happened that her mother and father owned
Benito II Restaurant on Mulberry Street in Little Italy, New York. We became friends and I’d often go down to eat at Benito. I’m glad I went into the Hotel Palma this one night. They have a beautiful garden in front of the hotel, and there are large French Doors at the beautiful lobby hotel. The doors stay open, and I could here live music from the bar inside. I went in. A girl was playing piano and singing lovely music. I sat down at the bar. I got my Negroni, and couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw this guy Tony, who owned a little clothing store in New York where I had bought a couple things from him. We were both happy to see each other, we chit chatted and hung out. A girl came up to the bar that Tony knew. Her name was Alessandra, and she had a villa on Capri. She was from Naples origianally but now lived in New York, and she was a customer at the restaurant Caio Bella that I worked at, but I’d never seen her, as I was a cook there, and though I saw some of the customers, I didn’t see all of them as I was busy cooking in the kitchen. We became friends, and I hung out with her for the rest of the trip, going to her villa with others later in the night.
It was Alessandra who got me to go to Bar Tiberio the first time. The first two times I went to Capri, I had a routine, wereby I’d go down to the beach somewhere around 10 or 10:30 in the morning. Hand-out, swim, and then around lunch time have lunch at a bar or trattoria down at Marina Piccolo. Go back to the beach, and then around 3;30, hop on a bus by the little chapel that would bring me up to Capritown, just a 200 foot walk to the Piazza where I went with Alessandra and a few others to Bar Tiberio for afternoon cocktails (Aperitivo). I usually had a Campari & Orange Jucie or a Negroni, and the waiter would bring us Potato Chips and Olives to nibble on with are cocktails. I did I love that, hanging out there at the bar in the Piazza, sipping Italian Cocktails, hanging with the beautiful people (as they say, and they were), relaxing, taking it all in, and loving every minute of it. “I felt like a King.” And I was.
The Famed FARAGLIONI I Was Talking About
Having an APEROL SPRITZ
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
Yes, I do Love the Bar Tiberio. It’s a great place to hang and have a good time. You’re in Capri, you have to feel good. I must say for those who might be on a limited budget, yes it’s not cheap. Not cheap, but well worth a splurge. To some, money is no object, so that don’t even think about it. Though I remember the price of my hotel (Tosca was $40 a day), I can’t remember the price of the drinks, probably about $4 or $5 for a Negroni or Campari back then. My APerol Spritz in 2022 cost
14 Euros, but it does come with a good amount of snacks which Cosantino my favorite waiter brought me. Cosantino took great care of me, the 6 times I went to Bar Tiberio on this particular trip. I was also drinking glasses of Falanghina (11 Euro), and I met a couple who were staying at the same hotel that I was, we wnt out for dinner at Risitorante Isadoro, then went to Tiberio afterwards and we got a bottle of Falanghina Fenicia that cost $45 a bottle. I had a Lasagan Bolognese (14 E) there one night. It was quite tasty.
So, if you’re into people watching and hanging out, sitting outside at a wonderful caffe on the beautiful Isle of Capri, Bar Tiberio is the way to go. Normally you go there just for drinks, anytime in the afternoon or evening. You can get breakfast in the morning, a Cappuccino and Italian Pastries if you like, and time of day. You can have Gelato, a Panino (Sandwich) Pizza, or Pasta or whatever you lie, they’ve got it all, but most of all it’s the physicality and ambiance, the cocktails, people watching, and waiters (who take great care of you) who matter the most.
On my last night there in 2022, after I had gone to the bathroom, I saw a guy sitting at a table inside. I wanted to get a picture at the Bar. I asked if he wouldn’t mind. He took a great picture of me (above). We were chatting, and I found out that his name was Francesco and his family owned the bar. I told him that I had started going to Bar Tiberio in the Smmmer of 1986, “probably before you were born,” I told Francesco. He told be that his parents bought the Bar in 1982, the year Francesco was born. “Oh” I said, “you were 4 years old when I started coming here” Francesco chuckled. We had a nice little chat. It was great meeting and talking with Francesco. I hope to see him again.
Enjoy a full day at sea on a private boat tour from Positano. Climb aboard a leisure boat built for comfort and choose how you spend your time on the water. Head south along the Amalfi Coast or cross the Tyrrhenian Sea to the island of Capri — the choice is yours.
If you choose to visit Capri, the captain will cruise north from Positano, passing the idyllic town of Nerano, famous for its blue flag beaches. Stop for a refreshing swim. Continue to Punto Campanella, where the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Coast meet. Then, cross the Bay of Naples and enjoy views of Vesuvius
Upon arrival in Capri, circumnavigate the entire island, stopping at the Blue, White, and Green Grotto. See the private villas of the rich and famous, along with Casa Malaparte and the historic lighthouse. Cruise past Marina Piccola to sail through the rock formations of Faraglioni. Choose to enjoy the island from the boat or dock for some free time on land. If wanting to explore the Amalfi Coast, head south from Positano and enjoy some of the most beautiful views in the world.
Stop to swim in the lagoons and caves that line the rugged coastline, or find an empty beach to laze on. Pass the beautiful fishing village of Praiano where century-old traditions are still maintained.
Go to the hidden lagoon of the fjord of Furore. Every year a diving competition is held on the bridge above the fjord. Continue to Conca dei Marini to sail under Sophia Loren’s former villa. Get an up-close view of the beachside apartment where Jackie Kennedy spent her Amalfi Coast vacation.
Stop in bustling Amalfi for a chance to stretch your legs and get some lunch. Then, go to Atrani, Italy’s smallest village. You can also visit the enchanting villages of Ravello and Marmorata to see a waterfall that once powered an old paper mill.
Finally, go to the laid-back villages of Minori and Maiori to see Roman ruins and discover one of the most famous pastry shops on the Amalfi Coast.
Start your day of adventure by meeting your driver/guide at your hotel. After a short meet and greet, take a brief, scenic drive to the port of Piano di Sorrento. From here you will depart by boat to the port of Castellammare di Stabia where the fun begins.
From your docking point at Castellammare di Stabia you will take a scenic transfer via bus to Pompeii and enjoy a 2.5-hour visit. Take a walk through the living ruins of this ancient city with your experienced, authorized guide who will teach you everything you need to know about this famous place.
Once the visit of Pompeii is over, relax for a while and have lunch in a traditional vineyard. Then, depart from Pompeii to visit Mount Vesuvius, once the site of a live volcano, and learn about this natural wonder with the assistance of a professional guide.
From Mount Vesuvius, you will take a transfer back to Castellammare di Stabia before departing by boat to Sorrento. You will take a scenic sailing trip along the coast and have the chance to take a dip in the crystal clear waters. After your sailing trip return to the port of Piano di Sorrento and be transferred back to your hotel.
Get a true taste of one of Italy’s culinary capitals on a food and sightseeing tour of Naples. Spend some time exploring the city, stopping at the city’s main squares and basilicas, as well as at hidden eateries to sample traditional dishes. Learn the history of Naples as you make your way from one mini-feast to the next, dining on everything from zucchini flowers to Ragù, Baccalà, and pizza. Come hungry: the tasting tour is a meal in itself. Food and sightseeing tour of downtown Naples Enjoy a morning or evening tour in one of Italy’s culinary capitals Sample some of the area’s best regional cuisine, such as ragù, Sfogliatelle, Spaghetti, and Pizza Explore Naples’ cultural attractions between tastings Includes vegetarian options.
See the stunning Amalfi Coast at your own speed on this private, full-day trip from Naples. After creating your own itinerary, sit back and enjoy as a private driver takes you along the coast, making stops in the most beautiful villages in southern Italy: Positano, Sorrento, Ravello and Amalfi. Get a true taste of the region’s rich history, architecture, cuisine and more before concluding with drop-off back in Naples. Private full-day tour of the Amalfi Coast from Naples Choose your own itinerary The four pearls of the Amalfi Coast: Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Ravello Option to have an English-speaking guide Private chauffeur-driven car Hotel pick-up and drop-off.
You have to try hard not to drink good coffee in Naples. Every neighborhood bar is a window into the vivacity of that sliver of Neapolitan territory. The first thing I do every morning after rolling out of bed and making myself look generally presentable (locals might argue that lululemon pants and crocs do not qualify as presentable Napoli- and who am I to quibble) is head to the bar across the street from my house. I go for the company. The invasive inquiries into my personal life. The exchange of hyper local recipes and even more hyper local gossip. This is the bar where I start my day. Twelve hours later, I will also end my day here with a spritz or a gingerino and a complex discussion of what was for lunch and what will be for dinner and how I will spend my Easter and whether I will make or buy my pastiera. It may only be February, and yet this is the idle chatter heard in Neapolitan bars everyday across the city. To know Napoli is to know her bars. Below are the most iconic.
Today Bar Mexico is a franchise and the Passalacqua coffee it serves is available in markets all over the South of Italy. The original Bar Mexico in Piazza Garibaldi feels straight out of the 1960s. The harsh artificial lighting, bright orange décor and barista uniforms transport you to booming post WWII Naples. Coffee is richly thick and served sugared and in a hot cup or tazza calda, the way most Neapolitans prefer. Most locals will also tell you this Bar Mexico is home to the best espresso in all of Napoli. The baristas are also among the town’s most talented.
No trip to Napoli is complete without a visit to the Belle Èpoque Gambrinus. You can order your coffee on the go while standing up at the bar. However, I highly suggest indulging in the luxurious seated ritual of sipping afternoon coffee and nibbling on a sweet when visiting Gambrinus. Inside, Gambrinus is drenched in old world tapestried luxury. Outside, on the terrace, you can appreciate views of the Teatro San Carlo. Gambrinus is also a traditional watering hole for the opera loving crowds who flock here before heading to the famed theater across the street. Gambrinus is certainly not where I drink my daily coffee, and nor should it be. This is a place to be savored on special occasions, preferably before heading to the opera.
Down the street from Gambrinus, you will find the slightly more rustic, but charming Vero Bar del Professore. Order the caffè alla nocciola (hazelnut coffee), a perfect shot of whipped cream and hazelnut coffee that is possibly one of the finest afternoon treats I have sampled in Naples, or anywhere for that matter. The congenial baristas will happily explain the history of Naples, coffee and their lives to you if you don’t watch out.
This is not a typical Neapolitan bar, yet in recent years it has grown on me. It offers a tranquil respite in the busy centro storico on the steps of Piazza Bellini- which after sunset becomes a blunt-smoking circus. Nea is calm, plush and has wifi. Better yet, they, unlike most bars in Naples, permit you to work on your laptop here. It is still uncommon to work in coffee bars in Naples. Nea, is of the younger spirit and will happily allow you to pass the day working and sipping away.
The paneled wood interior and busy morning crowds make Gran Caffè Cimmino an indispensible Neapolitan institution. Come here at the height of morning rush hour, around 8, order a caffè and cornetto (croissant) and just watch. Also note that in Naples we don’t eat our brioche and drink our coffee at the same time. First eat your cornetto. Then drink your caffè. To decipher Neapolitan morning rituals, come to Cimmino.
This is my ladies meet-up spot. On Piazza dei Martiri in the heart of classy Chiaia is this lovely old world jewel. Take a seat on the outdoor terrace in the spring, order an espresso and brioche and watch the elegant ladies of Chiaia and their pampered pups stroll down the grand boulevards of Naples.
Explore the central artery of Spaccanapoli and stop at this beloved bar for a piccola pausa caffè. This is one of those bars you don’t appreciate until you leave and live outside of Naples. I used to enjoy an espresso here nearly every morning and never really fully grasped how richly sublime it was until I was stuck drinking burnt Tuscan coffee for two months. The espresso here is so thick you can nearly stick a demi-spoon straight up in it. Perfection.
This is the best coffee in the Vomero. Strictly a stand up, drink and get on your way cafe, this is a spot for serious coffee lovers on the move. If you are seeking seated respite, head up to Piazza Vanvitelli.
I finally began to ‘get’ Naples after a post-lunch visit to this café on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. The hyper-kinetic movement, the shouting, the bits of cookie crumbs furtively clinging to office workers’ shirts, this is the nucleus (or the under belly) of Napule. I do not suggest sitting down here. To fully experience the Naples pausa caffè (coffee break), one mustcome here, order espresso in a tazza calda, stand up and drink. Don’t burn your lips on the hot cup!
Stendhal called Via Toledo “the most crowded and the gayest street in the universe.” I think he would have enjoyed this bar in the middle of the crowded avenue. Via Toledo is a central shopping hub in Naples, and Bar August is an excellent spot to stop after a long day of shopping and gallivanting. It is more than simply a bar. It is a pasticceria and tavola calda, offering snacks, both sweet and savory throughout the day. Also a prime spot for an afternoon tipple and nibble.
Pasta Lenticchie is a standby
of many Italian American families, just as it’s sister soup, Zuppa di Lenticchie
(Lentil Soup). As is with many of the older Italian-American recipes that are
primarily from the south, including from; Sicily, Campania (around Naples),
Apulia, and Calabria, this is a dish of the poor (Cucina Povera), as all the
ingredients, other than the cheese are quite cheap. And for those families who
couldn’t afford cheese, they simply didn’t use it. They might use toasted
breadcrumbs instead, from some leftover bread. Nowadays just about anyone can
afford cheese, so we highly recommend you dressing your pasta with a drizzle of
Olive Oil and some grated Pecorino or Caciocavallo Cheese, it’s oh so tasty.
RECIPE
:
8 ounce dry Lentils
8 tablespoons Olive Oil
1 medium Onion, peeled and minced fine
2 stalks Celery, washed and minced fine
5 cloves Garlic, peeled and minced fine
1 cup chopped San Marzano Plum Tomatoes
2 Chicken Bullion Cubes (optional)
1 Bay Leaf
1 – 10 ounce package frozen Spinach, thawed
1 pound Pasta; Gemelli, Small Shells, or Fusilli
grated Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano, or Grana
Place
¼ cup of olive oil and onions in a large 6 quart pot. Cook on low heat for 5
minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add
Celery and cook for 4 minutes. Add red pepper cook and garlic and cook for 2
minutes.
Add
tomatoes and cook on high heat for 4 minutes. Add Lentils and cook 3 minutes
while stirring with a wooden spoon.
Add
Bay Leaf and water to cover the lentils by 1 inch. Cook at a medium simmer
until lentils are tender but have a bit of firmness to them, about 22 minutes.
Chop
the thawed spinach, add to lentils and cook for 5 minutes on medium heat.
Cook
pasta as per the directions on package. When finished cooking, drain into a
colander, reserving a few tablespoons of water to add to pasta.
Put
the drained pasta back into the pot it cook in and drizzle with some Olive Oil.
Using a large slotted spoon, add lentils to the past and mix. Add a little bit
of the pasta cooking water if you need it. You don’t want the pasta to be
watery, but you do want it to be a little loose. Do this by adding only small
amounts of liquid at a time until you have reached the consistency that you
like.
Plate
into shallow past bowls, drizzle with a bit more olive oil and pass the grated
cheese.
NOTE:
This is a vegetarian dish, but if you like to add meat, you can sauté some
Italian Sausages and add to this recipe.
Add some sausage to each bowl and enjoy.
EXCERPTED From GRANDMA BELLINO’S ITALIAN COOKBOOK by Daniel Bellino “Z”
“RECIPES FROM MY SICILIAN NONNA”
GREAT SICILIAN RECIPES INSIDE !!!
.
ZUPPA di LENCTICCHI
Pasta Lentichie is actually made from Zuppa di Lenticchie. You make the soup, then take some it, draining off most of the broil so you end up with mostly the solids of Lentils with the chopped onion and carrot within. You cook whichever pasta you like then use these drained Lentils as the Sauce for the Maccheroni, and dressed with good quality Olive Oil and grated cheese (Caciacavallo, Pecorino, or Parmigiano).
There is no question at all, that Coniglio all Ischitana is by far the most popular and well-known dish in all of Ischia. The island of Ischia is much larger than its more famous nieghbor, Capri, and the island is filled with many vineyards where grapes are grown for the islands wonderful wines. And all over the island, in the vineyards, up the mountains, and in the woods, wild rabbits roam and have been the main source of meat on Ischia for hundreds of years.
Yes they make wonderful wine in Ischia, and if you are ever there, eating this famed rabbit dish, you must drink one of the island’s tasty wines. Biancolella is oh so delicious, and the wine most popular all around Ischia. Another fine white wine is made from the native Forastera grapes, and if you’re looking for a robus red, Per Palumm (Piedirosso) is robust and up to the task to pair with Coniglio Ischitana, or and grilled, roast, or braised meat that might be on the table.
CONIGLIO ISCHITANA
Ingredients :
1 small Rabbit (2 /2 lbs), cut into 8 pieces
1/4 cup Italian Olive Oil
4 cloves Garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 small Onion, peeled and diced
¾ cup dry White Wine
Sea Salt & Black Pepper (teaspoon each)
1 – 28 ounce can San Marzano Plum Tomatoes
⅛ teaspoon Red Pepper Flakes
3 sprigs Fresh Thyme ( or 1 teaspoon dry Thyme)
Place olive oil in a large pot and turn heat to medium. Add half of the rabbit, and cook for 6 minutes on all sides. Sprinkle a little salt and black pepper over the rabbit pieces and continue cooking for a few minutes until the rabbit is nicely browned (3 to 4 minutes more).
Remove the rabbit with a large slotted spoon, and set aside on a large plate. Place the remaining rabbit in the pot, and cook just as you did in preceeding step.
Remove rabbit pieces from pot.
Add the garlic and onions and cook over a low flame, striing with a wooden spoon, for 5 minutes.
Add half the wine to the pot, and tun heat to high, and scrape the bottom of the pot so you will deglaze the pan, lifting the brown bits on the bottom of the put into the liquid. Let cook at high for 3 minutes.
Add the remianing wine and all the rabbit to the pot, and cook on medium heat until the wine has reduce to ⅓ its original volume.
Add the tomatoes to the pot, with the Thyme, the Red Pepper Flakes, and the remaining salt and Black Pepper.
Bring the liquid to the boil, then quickly lower to a simmer, and let the Rabbit cook until tender, about 45 to 55 minutes more.
Turn the heat off, the Rabbit is done.
In homes in Ischia, families usually remove about half of the sauce from the pot, to lightly dress some spaghetti or maccheroni, as a primi course that preceeds eating the Rabbit as the main course (Secondo). We recommend you doing this. The rabbit does not need a lot of sauce to coat and eat it, and a little sauce on some pasta, sprinkled with a bit of grated cheese is a wonderful way of eat the dish.
You can serve the Rabbit on its own with the braising sauce, and if you like, you can serve some sauteed greens or whatever vegetable that you like on the side.
Buon Appetito !
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
This recipe has been generously given to the reads of this blog, by author Daniel Bellino Zwicke for your use and enjoyment. The recipe is Excerpted from Daniel’s forthcoming book POSITANO The AMALFI COAST – Travel Guide / Cookbook and Stories of Capri, Ischia, Naples and The Amalfi Coast Italy.
POSITANO 