PRAIANO – The Amalfi Coast Italy

 


What to Do in Praiano





Church of San Genaro

PRAIANO


The Church of St. Gennaro stands grandly as the only building of baroque architecture along the Amalfi Coast. The cathedral has survived several rebuilds and renovations over the centuries. Its splendour is fully revealed inside, with intricate hand-painted majolica tiles covering its dome and terracotta floors.

The piazza next to the 15th-century church hosts several concerts, sports events and festivals throughout the year. It’s an especially awe-inspiring place during the Luminaria di San Domenico festival, which takes place in late July or early August. During this annual event, the piazza’s lit up by thousands of candles in the evenings.



Mairina di Prai Beach

Praiano


Marina di Praia beach might be small, but its setting is very dramatic with steep rocky cliffs hugging its pebbled shore. Enjoy endless sea views while cooling off in the shallow bay or relaxing on a rental sunbed, or escape the heat to enjoy a meal at the beachfront Da Armandino restaurant. It’s open for lunch and dinner.

The beach has been a busy place since medieval times, serving a spot where local fishermen built and repaired their boats. Today, much of the tiny pebbled beach is dotted with colorful boats and fishing nets jostling for space among the sunbathers.




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LOCL CERAMICS


Ceramics are among the most popular items to buy in the Praiano area and the Amalfi Coast at large. Around town, you’ll find numerous custom shops where local Praiano residents create ceramics that include intricate designs primarily depicting natural scenery.

There are even certain spots in town where you can go and paint some ceramics yourself if you’re more interested in taking home a customized souvenir. In other locations, you can watch skilled and experienced artists craft ceramic works in person, so you can see how these works of art are made.


LIMONCELLO


If there’s one thing the Amalfi Coast and Praiano is known for, it’s lemons. These citrus fruits are grown throughout the area, bathing the entire town in a refreshing lemon scent. Because of this, you’ll find a wide variety of lemon products available. The most famous, however, is limoncello.

Additionally, you can find lemon granita, lemon treats, and lemon candies at food carts and in stores throughout town. There is even an abundance of lemon-scented candles and lemony influence on local perfumes and artworks that you can take home with you to help you remember your trip.






Other Things to Buy in PRAIANO


1)  Locally made Clothing
2)  Inlaid Wood Boxes
3)  Sea Urchin Crafts
4)  Art
5)  Handmade Jewelry

Marina Praia Beach

Praiano






POSITANO The AMALFI COAST

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RECIPES – PRAIANO POSITANO NAPLES

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A CINQUECENTO

In POSITANO

FINE ART PIECE by Bellino







What to Do in Positano

 
POSITANO
 
 
 
 
 
What to Do in Positano
 
 
 
Positano is a beautiful little Beach Town on the Amalfi Coast in Southern Italy, in the region of Campania, with Naples as the capital city of the region. Sorrento is nearby, and many people stay in Sorrento as their base of operation to visit : Positano, Capri, The Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, and Naples.
 
The town of Positano is filled with pastel colored homes that seem to be stacked one upon the other, starting down neat the beach and climbing the heights of the town. Positano is filled with wonderful boutique shops that sell famous Amalfi Coast Ceramic, Unique Style Positano Clothing, Custom Made Sandals, Limoncello, and all sorts of things.
 
There are many wonderful restaurants like Bucca di Baco, Chez Black, and Da VIncenzo, along with cute little cafes, Pastry Shops, Salumerias (Latteria), and Gelaterias.
 
Don’t miss having an aperitivo Italian Cocktail on The Terrazzo of The Poseidon Hotel, Franco’s Bar at the Hotel Le Sirenuse,  or any of the many restaurants and cafes around town.
 
 
 
 
Top 10 List
 
 
1.   Do Nothing – Walk Around
 
2.    Eat
 
3.    Go to the Beach
 
4.    Hike The Path of The Gods
 
5.    Aperitivo Time Everyday (Italian Cocktails) at The Poseidon or Franco’s Bar
 
6.    Take Pictures
 
7.    Take a Boat Trip to Capri
 
8.    Eat Pizza, then get a Gelato
 
9.    Rent a Scooter
 
10.   Cocktails or Dinner on the Terrazzo at the Hotel Poseidon
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IMPORTANT INFO : 
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Positano
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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The SNEAKER

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“I LOVE POSITANO” !!!
 
 
 
“What to Do in Positano” ?
EAT at CHEZ BLACK
 
 
Recommended by Daniel Bellino Ziwcke
Author of POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
 
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SEAFOOD PASTA
 
CHEZ BLACK
 
 
HEART SHAPED PIZZA
 
At CHEZ BLACK
 
 
 
 
 
 
EAT at La TAGLIATA
 
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Amalfi Coast Report 2022

 

Amalfi


“Positano is never likely to attract the organdie-and-white linen tourist,” John Steinbeck predicted in Harper’s Bazaar in 1953. “It would be impossible to dress as a languid tourist-lady-crisp, cool white dress, sandals as white and light as little clouds, picture hat of arrogant nonsense, and one red rose held in a listless white-gloved pinky. I dare any dame to dress like this and climb the Positano stairs for a cocktail.” 

Steinbeck was spectacularly wrong. A decade after his article, the Rolling Stones wrote music in Positano and Jackie Kennedy vacationed in nearby Ravello. The Amalfi Coast comprises 34 miles and 13 towns on the Italy’s southern coast. Designated as a World Heritage Site in 1997, it quickly became a port of call for the subsection of rich people whose careers mainly entail broadcasting absurd luxury. For the sake of this article, I attempted to make an exhaustive list of celebrities who have vacationed in Amalfi, but it quickly became clear that even if I did this work until I died and left the task to my descendants, it could never be completed.

During the last two years, Google searches for “Positano” have spiked as dramatically as the cliffs into which the town is set. #AmalfiCoast has more than 330 million views on TikTok. “Everyone is on the Amalfi Coast right now,” comedian Kate Berlant reflected in her podcast Poog. “There it is—the poison of Instagram!” her cohost, comedian Jacqueline Novak, responded. “You’re walking around with this idea that everyone is on the Amalfi Coast right now?” And yet—this is how it feels.

A local Amalfi news site notes that this summer, tourism on the coast looks likely to break previous records—this despite the fact that the area usually enjoys high tourism numbers from Russia, whose citizens won’t be traveling this summer. The article credits social media for the boost. U.S. News and World Report ranked Amalfi number one in “Best Beaches in Italy,” number two in “Best Honeymoon Destinations in Europe,” and number 3 in “Best Places to Visit in Italy.” Brides magazine put it first in a list of romantic places to honeymoon. In March, Rebecca Serle released the book One Summer in Italy, set in Positano. It sailed onto the best-seller list like a catamaran on a breezy day.

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Popularity has a price. All roads lead to Rome, but only one road leads to the Amalfi Coast. This means that travel during high tourist season is less “laughing merrily in your convertible” and more “hours-long gridlock nightmare as you scrounge in your tote bag for loose cashews.” A rule imposed this summer by the Italian government dictates that all throughout August and every weekend from June 15 to September 30, visitors to the area may only travel on the roads on odd- or even-numbered days, depending on the last digit on their license plate, CNN reports. The Italian economy suffered from the lack of tourism in 2020, during the height of the pre-vaccine pandemic. The influx of visitors since the country reopened to tourists is a mixed blessing. 

The average price of a hotel room in Positano has increased more than 20% since 2019, Bloomberg reports (it’s now a sweet, sweet $618.38.) Airline prices are at historic highs. So how, exactly, is everyone on my timeline affording this vacation? 

Positano

View from The IL San PIETRO HOTEL


Many visitors are likely funding their spectacular vacations not through largesse, but debt. A 2019 survey from Credit Karma found that about a third of all travelers and half of all millennial and Gen Z respondents said they had gone into debt for summer travel (the majority reported that they would be “willing to do it again.”) A survey from Allianz found that this year Americans plan to spend $2,122, on average, for vacation, a 50% increase from 2019. Despite the reports that air travel this summer has been and will continue to be “hell,” the last Sunday in June saw more travelers than any day since February 2020, a TSA spokesperson reported. At a dinner party recently, a woman mentioned in a world-weary way that she has visited Positano three times. She sounded exhausted, as if instead of the Italian coastline, friends and bachelorette parties had dragged her to Trenton, New Jersey.

For so many years I did not think about the Amalfi Coast—I thought about Paris and London and Bora Bora, and when I thought about Italy, I thought of Rome and Venice and Milan and Tuscany. Sometimes I thought about Pisa, Pompei, Florence, and Siena. Later I thought about whatever area Call Me By Your Name was shot. I cannot believe there is another part of Italy I am supposed to be thinking about. And yet. “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone,” wrote Steinbeck. Or in the words of a Glamour staffer who visited once for six hours: “I follow every account and look at the webcam of Positano every night before I go to bed because it calms me.”

Through a proliferation of images the novelist could never have imagined, the Amalfi Coast has amassed real estate in hundreds of millions of minds. If everyone on the Amalfi Coast jumped off a cliff—into sparkling sapphire waters—would you? Yes, of course. As long as someone was taking a picture.




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“I LOVE POSITANO”







POSITANO

WHERE to EAT?




My CAPRI by Travel Writer Italian Cookbook Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke

Capri
The Faraglioni
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CAPRI
 
From Summit of MONTE SOLARO
 
 
 
 
MY CAPRI
 
 
 
I first started gong to Capri in the Summer of 1986. I was a young man in my early 20s, and travel was so much different than it is now. First off, there was no internet back then, No Expedia, no Booking.com , to check out info on anything or anyplace, no Whatsapp to send text and talk on the phone for Free anywhere in the World. You couldn’t look up and buy Airline Tickets by yourself, you had to go through a Travel Agent, or purchase a plane ticket directly from the airline. You only info came from your own personal research from books and magazine articles, past experiences, and advice and info from friends.
 
Back then in 1986 and before, most people if they were traveling to Italy, to Capri, or anywhere in the World would buy Travel Guide Books, like Baedekers, Fodors, Frommer Guides, and any number of Travel Guide Books available at the time. Rick Steves was just starting out back then, and I did buy his Europe Through The Back Door guide book, along with Europe on $40 a Day, which was my main source at the time. When it came to finding accommodations. Typically, for any place that you were traveling too : Rome, Paris, etc., there would be info on the main attractions to see, how to get around, restaurant suggestions, and a list of hotel accommodations in 3 price categories : of Budget Hotels, Moderate Priced, and Luxury Hotels. 
 
With my Frommer’s Guide in had, on this my second trip to Italy, I got my hotel in Rome from the Frommer’s recommendation, and I looked up budget hotels in Capri. There was I think only 2 under the budget range as I recall. I picked the Villa Tosca at $40 a night. So they way I did it back then, I had my list of budget , I get into town, and either go to the property or give them a call from a cafe or on a payphone somewhere, when I got to my destination.
 
So the first time I went to Capri, I took the ferry boat, and when I arrived in Marina Grande, Capri, and got off the boat, and walked down the dock, and once I came across a payphone, I gave them a call at Villa Tosca. I asked if they had any rooms available? They did. They asked me where I was. I told them that I had juts gotten off the ferry boat and was down by the port. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown, and when I got off, just walk straithgt through the Piazza and then down toward the Hotel Quisisana The hotel was behind the Quisisana. Just walk the alleyway alongside the hotel and I would come across a sign that pointed to the Villa Tosca. And so I did.
 
When I got off of the Funicular, I spotted a cute little Lemonade Stand (Lemon Granita). It was hot out, and I couldn’t resist. I got a Lemonade. Best Lemonade I’ve ever had. It was cold and refreshing, and I Loved it. The Lemonade Stand is still there in the Piazzetta. The only difference is that instead of less than a dollar for a Lemonade, the now (2022) cost a Whopping $5 ..
 
I walked down toward the Quisisana. It came into view. A beautiful Grand Old Hotel. I walked down the pathway, and right before the Via Augustus. I saw the sign and followed the pathway. I came to it, Villa Tosca, which back then was a simple pensione. Today it is no longer called Villa Tosca. It is owned by the same family, but a few years back, the son turned it into a nice little boutique hotel and changed the name to “La Tosca” (hotel).  I gave them my Passport, then checked into my room. It was late afternoon. I left Rome in the morning, bound for Naples Central Station. I arrived about 3 hours later. I walked outside the train station, and found the bus that went to the Porto. I hopped on, and arrived about 15 minutes later. Got on the ferry and went to Capri, and now I’m at my little hotel. I took a shower, got dressed and went out. I had seen the Faraglioni from my balcony. I went out on the main terrazzo of the hotel and just starred at them. The Faraglioni were beckining my to them, and I just started walking toward them. The walk along the Via Tragara was gorgeous. I passed all the beautiful villas along the way. Villas owned by Valentino, Armani, Sophia Loren and others with the means to own them. I loved it. When I got down to the end of the Via Tragara, I saw another Lemonade Stand. I got one. This little old lemonade stand is still there. Same story, a Lemonade has gone from $1 to 5. I could see the Faraglioni. They were Gorgeous. I walked down the path, getting one beautiful view after the other. I was mesmerized. One of the most beautiful sights of my life. I walked all the way down, taking pictures along the way.
 
The first beach I ever swam at was Marina Piccolo, way back on that 1st trip in 1986. I met a couple girls from South Africa, and the 3 of us went to the beach there. It was great, and it started my Caari Ritual of going swimming on Capri (any beach) then catching a bus back to Capritown, getting off the bus, and heading straight to Bar Tiberio in the Piazza Umberto for some afternoon Aperitivo of Campari, Negroni s, Lemonade, or glass of local wine. 
 
If I was at Da Luigi Beach Club, I’d take the boat from Da Luigi to Marina Piccolo, and pick up the bus to Capritown at the Little Chapel at Marina Piccolo. I Love Da Luigi, not only one of my favorite swim spots on Capri, but one of my favorite places in the entire World to go swimming. It’s gorgeous. Right there smack-dab next to the famed Faraglioni Rocks of Capri. When I went there in 2015, I started a new ritual whereby I go to the Salumeria Capri (by the bus station Capritown) to get a nice Beach Lunch to bring with me to Da Luigi. I usually get a Arancini (Rice Ball) some Eggpant Parmigiana, a bottle of Mineral Water, and a small bottle of local Red Wine, usually Aglianico. I love it. They make really good food at Saluneria Capri, and I go there often for Arancini, Panini, water and Wine when I’m on Capri.
 
I’m not normally a beach person, nut when I’m on Capri, I Love to go swimming. It so refreshing, and I like it. When I go into the water, I usually stay in for 15 to 20 minutes at a time. Same in Positano. I just swim out and float, and have a wonderful time. I love swimming out, and just lie floating on my back and look at the cliffs as the shoot out of the Sea, soaring to heights of 2,000 and 3,000 feet above the Sea. It’s quite a dramatic sight on Capri, or if I’m swimming in Positano, the views as you float in the water, looking back to the island, is mesmerizing. “I Love it”
 
I was surprised when I decided one day to swim at the beach at Marina Grande one day, I think it was 2019. I had always thought that it would be too crowded and maybe the water over there. It wasn’t. In fact it was quite clean, and I had a great time swimming there. I swam there, again on my most recent trip, in the Spring of 2022. It was the middle of May, and it was not hot out. It was a bit chilly, but I wanted to swim. “I’m not going to Capri, and not swim. Mo way.” I decided to head over to the Beach at Marina Grande. When I got there, there were people at the beach, but not even 1 person was swimming, no one at all. I staked out my territory, and put my swim trunks that were in my backpack on. I just took off my pants. I had underwear on, so I wasn’t indecent. I put on my trunks. There were 3 people together there hanging-out next to me. I asked them to watch my stuff. “OK,” they said. I started walking into the water with my new swim shoes. They guy told me, “Ne careful. Be careful of the Rock.” I knew what he meant, There are a lot of rocks there, and you have to be careful not to fall and hit yourself on the rock. You could really get hurt if you didn’t pay attention. You could get hurt bad. Yes there was a bit of danger. I was careful. The water felt slightly cold, and I almost didn’t go in, saying to myself, well, “It’s good enough if you just wade in the water.” But no, finally, I decided to go for it, and I jumped in fully. “It was wonderful.” Once I got in, the water was fine. It wasn’t cold at all. I loved it. I swam for a full 20 minutes before getting out. I knew it was 20 minutes, because I had my Sturghling Coca Cola GMT Dive Watch on. It worked. The watch was waterproof.  I was willing to take a chance with that watch in the water, but not my much more expensive Bulova Dive Watch that I purchased recently, and is my new favorite watch since I got it. Love it. It’s a really beautiful watch dive watch, a Bulova Oceanographer, with a Red & Black Bezel, similar to a Rolex GMT Master. 
 
The next day, (May 16,2022) I swam again. This time at Marina Piccolo. A place I love to swim. I walked all the way down from my room at Casa Raiolo, I walked down to Due Golfi, and then down the pathway to Marina Piccolo. It took about 35 minutes, It was a nice walk, and I stopped and took another picture at the Capri Sign that’s down there. I took a nice picture there in 2015, and wanted to get another one here on my Capri Trip 2022. I asked a passerby to take my picture. He was an American and he took his time taking the picture. “Thanks whoever you are.” I staked my spot, asked some people to watch my stuff and went in. It was a bit chilly, but unlike yesterday, there were other people swimming in the water. I dove in. Damn, it was cold. Colder than yesterday. I thought maybe if I swam out to another spot further out, it might be warmer. I was right. I swam and floated around, had a great time, doing my usual thing. It was great. I swam for 20 minutes, with my Sturghling Diver Watch on, then got out. Another great time swimming off Capri. “I’m The American Champ on Capri.” I don’t think many more Americans have spent more time swimming around Capri than me. “Seriously, it’s probably true.” Anyway?
 
This was my 4th time staying on The Isle of Capri, not including the one time I went just for the day in 2019. I had a great time swimming and hanging around Capri that day, taking the ferry back and forth from Naples, a thing most people who say they’ve been to Capri say. But that’s not seeing Capri. You have to stay a minimum of two days, and 3 would be better. You’ve not really seen Capri, if you haven’t stayed there. Yes I know it’s a bit expensive? But go anyway. Make it the splurge part of your trip. “I do.”
 
 
 
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
 
 
 
 
 
CAPRI
From POSITANO
And SORRENTO
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POSITANO The AMALFI COAST

CAPRI  SORRENTO  NAPLES

TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
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Best Selling Italian Cookbook Author
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
2022
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FIND a ROOM in CAPRI
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Me on CAPRI
Boat from Da Luigi Beach Club to Marina Piccola
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POSITANO
“The SNEAKERS”
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TAKE a BOAT TOUR
CAPRI
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CAPRI BOAT TOUR
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From POSITANO (or SORRENTO)  “FULL DAY BOAT TOUR”
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  • Swim and snorkel on the island of Capri
  • Enjoy a full-day trip to Capri with an expert guide
  • Tour the island by boat and on foot
See everything the island of Capri has to offer on a full-day excursion by boat with an expert guide. Enjoy a small-group experience along with the perfect combination of a guided tour and free time to explore.

Get picked up at the Parking Mandara in Positano and head to the port of Piano di Sorrento.

Set off on a comfortable and elegant boat along the Sorrento coast to Capri.

Along the way, you’ll pass the ancient fishing village, Marina Grande, and the ruins of a Roman villa near Bagni della Regina Giovanna. You’ll also get to admire lovely rock formations and waterfalls.

Upon arrival to Capri, tour the island first by boat, making stops at the Marvelous Grotto, the White Grotto, and the Green Grotto, admiring the Natural Arch, the Villa Curzio Malaparte, the Faraglioni rocks, and the Lighthouse of Punta Carena along the way.

Enjoy a couple of stops for swimming and snorkeling, and a relaxing break with snacks and drinks on board. Next, it’s time to tour the island on foot, with 3 to 5 hours to do as you please.

Your departure from Capri will be bittersweet – literally because you’re invited to a Limoncello tasting before you board the boat.

  • Pickup and drop-off from meeting point
  • Professional, English-speaking skipper – Dry snacks, Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, Snorkeling equipment    –  Visit to the Blue Grotto

Amalfi

AMALFI
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NAPLES – CAPRI The AMALFI COAST
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HOTEL SANTA CATERINA
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This is ATRANI
 
On the Southern Approach to Amalfi right
around the Bend
 
AMALFI COAST,  ITALY
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PASTICCERIA PANSA
 
“My Favorite Spot in Amalfi’
 
 
 
 
PANSA
 
 
“YOU HAVE To GO HERE” !

 
They make the Best SFOGLIATELLE in the WORLD
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The AMALFI COAST
 
COOKBOOK / TRAVEL GUIDE
 
Don’t Go to The AMALFI COAST
 
Without This BOOK 
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Screenshot 2021-08-22 12.08.08 PM
On The Amalfi Drive
The AMALFI COAST
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Lo SMERALDINO
 
Author Daniel Bellino recommends Lo Smeraldino if you’re in Amalfi
and looking for a restaurant with Tasty Food and great view of the Sea.
 
For Dinner, he recommends Taverna Buonvicino or Da Gemma
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Linguine with Langoustines
 
 
Lo SMERALDINO RISTORANTE
 
AMALFI
READ of Eating at Lo Smeraldino
and The AMALFI COAST.
In Daniel Bellino Zwicke’s
Best Selling Travel Guide