“Procida, in my opinion more beautiful than the sisters Ischia and Capri, a former fishing village where time seems to have stopped. Come and discover with me the beauties of this place still unknown to many tourists.”
This volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples seems almost out of time, in the idyllic setting of fishing boats and small villages perched on hills.
Here a typically Mediterranean beauty and from literature to film it was starred in many works. In the late 1950s, Elsa Morante dedicated the book L’Isola di Arturo to this island.
Procida is the queen of slow tourism and should be discovered calmly, with no rush. It offers a perfect mix of natural beauty, glimpses of a long history and unmissable beaches. You can get around easily on foot, but buses or taxis are also available.
The territory of Procida is divided into nine contrade, called grancìe. These are Terra Murata (the oldest), Corricella (the fishing village), Sent’cò (with the commercial port of Marina Grande), Semmarezio, San Leonardo, Madonna della Libera (or Santissima Annunziata), Sant’Antuono, Sant’Antonio and Chiaiolella (a marina). At 16 kilometres in length, every corner is impressive, starting with the many small streets that open onto beaches hidden in bays.
The historic core is the hamlet of Terra Murata , which is in some ways its heart, but equally interesting is the small island of Vivara, connected to Procida by a bridge. Its peculiarity is that it is a protected natural island, which winks at a more informal tourism.
Procida can also be visited in one day, the most important thing is to plan your movements or, alternatively, to let yourself go by instinct or the tips of the locals.
To get there, take the ferry from the port of Naples or Pozzuoli, a one-hour boat ride. You will get to Marina Grande, the harbour and beating heart of the centre, divided between craft shops, bars, small boutiques and rental points for mopeds, bicycles, minicars and various boats.
From here you can move towards the historic centre, climbing up Via Principe Umberto to Piazza dei Martiri, passing by the Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie and stopping at the Belvedere dei Cannoni to observe Marina Corricella in all its wonder.
Terra Murata is the ancient historical centre. Here you can visit Palazzo D’Avalos, which used to be a palace and prison, and get lost among courtyards, stairways and small squares until you reach the 11th-century Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. In addition, it boasts a museum complex on the three floors below.
The fishermen village, Corricella, is a place you can walk to. The small houses of different colours are reflected in the transparent waters of the marina and it is one of the most beautiful and characteristic views of the island.
Enjoy a day exploring the tranquil island of Procida
Stop for lunch at a traditional local restaurant
Travel round-trip by ferry from Naples
Spend a day exploring the quiet, mysterious island of Procida on your own. Travel by ferry from Naples and discover all the island has to offer. Explore lemon groves and cobbled alleys, soaking up the relaxing atmosphere.
Stop for lunch at a typical local restaurant and watch the world go by. Enjoy 3 delicious courses accompanied by a glass of wine.
Visit Terra Murata, the oldest village on the island, and see its castle and prison. Stop at the marina of Corricella picturesque village of fishmen and wander through the port of Marina Grande in Sent’cò. Admire best view of Coricella village from Belvedere dei Cannoni and Belvedere di Elsa Morante.
Procida is one of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the Metropolitan City of Naples, in the region of Campania.
If you’re a veteran of the Amalfi Coast and the nearby Islands and you’ve never been to Procida, you just may want to give it a shot someday?
Procida, a tiny spot of land in the Bay of Naples, might be best known as the island between Ischia and Capri. But in late January, it was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2022, beating nine other candidates—a mix of cities and small towns—and becoming the first island to ever be granted the title.
Under two square miles in total, the island has mostly flown under the tourist radar (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come here for their summer vacations), overshadowed by its better-known siblings. This is all despite its big-screen moments—Procida has served as the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino—and the fact that it features the same pastel houses, cafes-lined marinas, and narrow streets as its bigger counterparts, but also historic sites, wild nature, and near-empty beaches.
PROCIDA
The PORT
HOW to GET THERE
Procida lies 14 miles off the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and hydrofoils leaving from two of the city’s piers, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, as well as from Pozzuoli, just north of Naples. Depending on the ride—the faster hydrofoil or the slower ferry—you’ll get to the island in 40 minutes to 1 hour. You can also travel from Ischia—that’s a 15- to 25-minute journey.
WHAT to SEE
Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main tourist port, you’ll see a cluster of traditional houses along the waterfront, each one painted in vivid shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, and blue—traditionally a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.
Via Roma, Procida’s main street, is right around the corner from the port, and a good spot for lunch—especially at La Medusa, which has been around since 1954. Before you move on, stop for an espresso at Bar Roma and make sure to order lingua di suocera (‘mother-in-law’s tongue’), Procida’s traditional puff pastry filled with lemon custard. Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà, an 18th-century church with an iconic baroque belfry, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.
From here, it’s a 15-minute walk uphill (then downhill) to Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest fishing village. Only reachable on foot or by boat, the area is one of the best places to stay for a taste of slow island living, and is full of restaurants—Caracale, La Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few—gelato shops like Chiaro di Luna, and bars.
At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with great eateries (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft boutiques, and old-school bakeries—not to mention access to one of the island’s most popular beaches, spiaggia della Chiaiolella, known for its sunsets.
Terra Murata, the fortified medieval stronghold at the highest and northernmost tip of the island, is another highlight. A tumble of skinny lanes and crumbling houses, this is Procida’s most historical center, home to Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, which honors Procida’s patron saint, and Palazzo D’Avalos, a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the island’s governing family. In 1830 the building was converted into a prison that eventually closed in 1988. Two viewpoints here offer the island’s most panoramic vistas: Corricella in all its candy-colored glory to the west; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance, to the east.
Village of Corrocella
On the opposite coast from Marina Grande, in the southern part of the island, there here is a place that no guide on “what to see in Procida” will ever forget.
The seaside village of Corricella is simply suggestive and lively at the same time. It is the classic fishermen village animated by bars, restaurants and small craft shops where you can buy the most typical souvenirs, which anyone who comes to Procida cannot avoid to love and photograph.
Here you can stroll among the fishermen’s nets, admiring the very old colourful houses and deeply breathing the sea in the air.
The BEACHES
Among Procida’s most scenic beaches are Pozzo Vecchio, whose black sands were made famous in Il Postino; spiaggia Chiaia, to the east, which overlooks Ischia and features clear, shallow waters and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent seafood restaurant La Conchiglia); and Ciraccio, the longest and most secluded. Further down, the spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another gem, though slightly more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas) start rolling out aperitivo.
This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and a dusting of Pecorino Cheese.
Luveri al sale
The waters of Procida abound with Pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.
Coniglio alla Procidana
In addition to the sea, locals have also sourced food from the island’s terroir. Procida, like Ischia, has a signature rabbit dish, usually prepared with cherry tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, olive oil, and white wine.
Calamari Ripieni
Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.
Pizza di Procida
As Procida is just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples, it should come as no surprise that the island’s pizzaioli emulate the wood-fired style of the world’s pizza capital.
Tortano con i carciofi
Especially popular around Easter, this savory bread is stuffed with artichokes and, at times, sausage.
Spaghetti ai ricci di mare
Creamy and briny, sea urchin has a particular taste, one that fuses nicely with spaghetti when sautéed with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a hint of lemon.
Lingue di Procida
Procida is famous for its lemons, which are larger and sweeter than other varieties. The Procidani prepare them in dozens of sweet and savory recipes, and a signature dolce is the Lingue di Procida, or tongues of Procida, lemon-flavored, cream-filled pastries.
L’insalata di limone
Speaking of lemons, the lemon salad with mint, garlic, crushed red chili pepper, garlic and olive oil makes for an airy, refreshing start to any meal.
The San Michele in Corricella, has 12 tastefully decorated rooms done in earthy tones and minimalist design. A similar aesthetic is found in its slightly bigger sister property La Suite, a stylish accommodation near Ciraccio that comes with a pool, a garden, and striking views.
In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not just for its simple, brightly colored rooms but its pizzeria, one of the most famous in Procida. La Vigna in a beautifully restored farmstead within a vineyard that overlooks the Bay of Naples, delivers charm and tranquility.
Yes, Movie Stars, Rock Stars, and writers, they all go to the Amalfi Coast, Ravello (Gore Vidal),
and the beautiful Isle of Capri, like: Neruda, Valentino, Jackie Kennedy, and Italian film directors
Federico Fellini and Dino De Laurentiis. In the 50s and 60s Capri and the Amalfi Coast saw the likes of Sophia Loren, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Jack Lemmon,Vittorio De Sica, and Gina Lollobrigida all make movies in the area, to name but a few. We saw Jack Lemmon make another film in the area in the 1970s when he made Macaroni with the great Italian actor, the great
Marcello Mastroianni in the vibrant southern Italian capital city of Naples. It’s a marvelous movie, and if you’ve never seen it, we suggest you do.
The 1990s saw the likes of Matt Damon, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, and the late great
Phillip Seymour Hoffman shooting The Talented Mr. Ripley on the local islands of Procida and
Ischia. Parts of the film were also shot in Rome, Venice, and San Remo.
The 90s also saw Robert Downey Jr., Marisa Tomei, Fischer Stevens, and Billy Zane in a cute
Romantic Comedy that starts in Pittsburgh, moves on to Venice, a drive through Tuscan, and on to Rome before the finale in Positano on The Amalfi Coast. The characters stayed in the luxurious
Le Sirenuse Hotel. It’s a cut little film, and all the Italian locals are just gorgeous.
We don’t see another major American movie set on The Amalfi Coast until a small part of the film
Under The Tuscan Sun, starring Diane Lane is shot there in 2003.
Nowadays we are seeing lots of major celebrities vacationing on Capri, Positano and The Amalfi Coast. This past Summer of 2021 saw “Bennifer” Jennifer Lopez and beau Ben Affleck celebrating Jennifer’s 52nd Birthday on a Luxury Yacht moored off of Capri, Positano, and the namesake town of Amalfi. Rapper / actor LL Cool J was spotted hanging out with former NBA great Irvin Magic Johnson on the Isle of Capri, where Magic celebrated his 59th Birthday at a restaurant on Capri with his wife, friends, and family. Denzel Washington loves Positano as well, and has been spotted at
Chez Black and Music on The Rocks, both in Positano, and Best Selling Italian Cookbook writer Daniel Bellino Zwicke has been vacationing in Positano and Capri since the Summer of 1985. His latest book, is Positano The Amalfi Coast Cookbook & Travel Guide.
Stopped in here for an Espresso, so I could use the bathroom and change into my swim trunks to go swimming at Marina Picolo. If you want to go swimming at Marina Picolo, the best way to get there is to take a little town bus to Due Gulfi (Two Gulfs). Get off the bus, and ask one of the locals where the pathway is to Marina Picolo. It’s a great little walk (10 minutes), with nice sights to see as you stroll down to the beach. You have options of paying for a chaise-lounge at a private beach club, or better yet, there is a free beach that’s awesome. I never pay when swimming at Marina Picolo and always opt for the free beach, which is wonderful.
I reserve saving my money for when I go swimming at Da Luigi Beach Club at the Faraglioni Rocks. It’s gorgeous!
.
Catch of The Day
I was lucky to catch these two Fishermen bringing in their fresh Catch of The Day, as locals were at the dock to buy the freshest fish humanly possible, directly from these two fine gentlemen, who had a scale on board to weight the fish. This was quite awesome to witness, and was one of the highlights of my trip.
These fishermen had quite a good variety of several different kinds of local fish, and their were about 6 local men there to buy fish from them. It was quite an animated scene as thee fishermen quoted prices of the various fish, and the buyers argued with them over the price, and the two sides bickered back and forth before a final sale was mad.. It was all in good fun, and I totally enjoyed the show.
Espresso, Da Luigi Beacch Club at The Faraglioni Rocks (Daniel’s Favorite Beach)
Shuttle Boat at Da Luigi to Marina Picolo, Marina Picolo, Chapel at Marina Picolo
At Marina Picolo looking to the famed FARAGLIONO ROCKS of CAPRI
Gaetano making me a Perfect ESPRESSO
HOTEL PLAZA
SALERNO
The Hotel Plaza in Salerno s a wonderful hotel. The location is great, being across the from the Train Station and just 3 blocks from the marine terminal where you can catch Ferry Boats to Capri, Sorrento, Ischia, Positano, Amalfi, Cetara, and all points on the Amalfi Coast. You can catch trains to Naples and be there in just 30 minutes.
Gaetano whose family owns and runs the hotel is an absolute Gem. Love that guy. He is so very kind and hospitable and wil make you feel like family, and if you get to know him, you will might be lucky to have him make you a perfect Espresso personally on his prized Espresso machine that he loves dearly. I was so lucky for this, but most of all, I was so fortunate to have a few lovely conversation with Gaetano, he is as I have said a gem, and I will cherish and always remember spending a little time with him and having those nice conversations. “Thank you Gaetano, you made my stay at your family’s hotel in Salerno so very special.
GAETANO Makes Me ESPRESSO
WATCH The VIDEO !
EATING WATERMELON in NAPLES , ITALY
NAPOLI
These Guys Invited Me into Their Little Party at their FRUIT STAND in NAPOLI
We ate WATERMELON and Drank LYCRIMA CHRIST WINE
“I Had a Great Time
One of the HIGHLIGHTS of my TRIP
My PIZZA
Di MATTEO
NAPOLI
PIZZERIA Di MATTEONAPLES
BACK in POSITANO
August 2019
.
.
Positano
Walking up the Via Pasitea
Mario & Esperanza
Me & Mario
Hanging at The Pool of The Hotel Poseidon
POSITANO , ITALY
August 9, 2019
Swimming and Drinking Aperol Spritz ‘s
All Afternoon
Me Mario and his Wife Esperanza had a great Day
Probably the # 1 Highlight of my entire Trip
Holding Up The Hill
POSITANO
2019
#SpaghettiTomatoSauceRECIPE
#AperolSprtiz #Aperol #Campari #Negroni
Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke
BACK on CAPRI
NAPLES and The AMALFI COAST
My ESPRESSO
BAR DUE GULFI
CAPRI
Stopped in here for an Espresso, so I could use the bathroom and change into my swim trunks to go swimming at Marina Picolo. If you want to go swimming at Marina Picolo, the best way to get there is to take a little town bus to Due Gulfi (Two Gulfs). Get off the bus, and ask one of the locals where the pathway is to Marina Picolo. It’s a great little walk (10 minutes), with nice sights to see as you stroll down to the beach. You have options of paying for a chaise-lounge at a private beach club, or better yet, there is a free beach that’s awesome. I never pay when swimming at Marina Picolo and always opt for the free beach, which is wonderful.
I reserve saving my money for when I go swimming at Da Luigi Beach Club at the Faraglioni Rocks. It’s gorgeous!
.
Catch of The Day
I was lucky to catch these two Fishermen bringing in their fresh Catch of The Day, as locals were at the dock to buy the freshest fish humanly possible, directly from these two fine gentlemen, who had a scale on board to weight the fish. This was quite awesome to witness, and was one of the highlights of my trip.
These fishermen had quite a good variety of several different kinds of local fish, and their were about 6 local men there to buy fish from them. It was quite an animated scene as thee fishermen quoted prices of the various fish, and the buyers argued with them over the price, and the two sides bickered back and forth before a final sale was mad.. It was all in good fun, and I totally enjoyed the show.
POSITANO 